Violets: Care And Propagation At Home, Transplanting And Propagation

The plant Saintpaulia, also called the Uzambarian violet, is a member of the family Gesneria. This flowering herbaceous plant is quite popular in indoor culture. Under natural conditions, the violet can be found in East Africa, more precisely, in its mountainous regions (Kenya and Tanzania). However, this flower prefers to grow near waterfalls and on river terraces. There are about two dozen varieties of indoor violet.

In 1892 Baron Adalbert Walter Radcliffe le Thanet von Saint-Paul, the military commander of the Ouzambar district, then part of the German colony, discovered this plant. The county was in what is now modern-day Rwanda, Burundi, and Tanzania. Saint-Paul sent the seeds of the violet to his father, who was president of the dendrological society in Germany. He, in turn, passed it on to the botanist Wendland, who managed to grow the adult plant from seed, which he did in 1893. The botanist described the plant and named it Sepolium violeticolor, which he classified as a separate genus.

The same year the flower was presented to the general public at a flower show in Ghent, where the right to breed it on an industrial scale was bought. The violet was not introduced into North America until 1927. Almost immediately it became very popular among florists. Almost immediately it became very popular among flower growers. In 1949 there were more than a hundred varieties of this plant.

Today more than 32 thousand varieties of house violets have been registered. They are all considered hybrids of the senpolla errata and violet-flowering.

Brief description of cultivation

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

  1. Flowering. Virtually year-round.
  2. Brightness.

    Needs bright light, and it should be diffused. A window of northeastern, northern and northwestern orientation will be suitable for violets. Duration of light day - from 13 to 14 h.

  3. Temperature regime. During intensive growth 18 to 24 degrees, in winter months not colder than 15 degrees.

  4. Pouring. It is carried out systematically a couple of times a week. At the same time once in ten days it is recommended to water the bush by the method of lower watering.
  5. Air humidity. Grows normally at the air humidity typical for living rooms.

  6. Fertilizer. Feed the plant only during its intense growth. Regularly three times a month you should add a compound fertilizer for indoor flowering crops to the soil mixture. It is recommended to mix the fertilizer with the water used for bottom watering. Note that ½ of the dose recommended by the manufacturer (look on the package) is enough for the violet.

  7. The dormancy period. It is not pronounced. However, from time to time during the winter months the bushes are given a rest.
  8. Potting. Replace the soil mixture in the container every year.

    However, change the container to a larger one only when necessary.

  9. Propagation. By leaf cuttings, offspring and seed.
  10. Pests. Scabies, thrips, worms, midges, mosquitoes, spider mites, false mites, aphids, nematodes, whiteflies and flies.

  11. Diseases. Powdery mildew, gray rot, fusarium, rust, and phytophthora.

Properties of the violet

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Home violet is a low growing herbaceous perennial that is an evergreen. Its shoots are shortened, and its root rosette includes tufted leaf plates that are rounded and leathery to the touch. The leaves of the boys are uniformly green, while the girls have a lighter spot at the base.

The leaves have an irregular, heart-shaped base with the upper part either rounded or tapered.

Flowers reach 20-40 mm across. They are arranged in brush-like inflorescences and may be simple five-petaled or fringed, corrugated or star-shaped. The flowers can be colored in almost any shade, and they come in both bicolor and monochrome. If the plant is well cared for and given the best possible conditions, it will flower almost throughout the year.

The fruit is a capsule with many small seeds.

In popular usage, the senpolia is better known as a house violet. And it was given to her because of the fact that her flowers have a great resemblance to the garden violet or wild violet. However, the senpolia and violet are representatives of completely different families. Therefore, pansies, or tricolor violets are not related to the senpolia.

Violets will bloom and please you.

Home care for violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Lighting

Philas at home are light loving plants, but direct sunlight can be very harmful to them. Therefore, if possible, it is recommended to place them on a window with a northeast, north or northwest orientation. On such a window sill the shrub will receive a sufficient amount of diffused light.

It is also possible to place violets on a southern window sill.

However, in this case, the window should be half the height of the curtains. The plant is not afraid of the sunlight, which can reach it during sunset. However, the flower will need good protection from the scorching rays in the afternoon. The duration of the daylight hours should be equal to 13-14 hours. During the winter months, it is recommended to additionally illuminate the culture.

In this case, the bushes will be covered with flowers even in January and February.

Optimum temperature

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Development of violets stops after the room gets colder than 15 degrees. Remember that the room should be moderately warm in the spring and summer and moderately cool in the fall and winter. The plant feels best at 18 to 24 degrees. It reacts extremely negatively to sharp temperature changes and draughts.

Therefore it's not recommended to move it to a balcony or garden in warm seasons.

Humidity

Humidity of air is necessary for normal development of senpolia. And it can be increased in different ways, besides spraying the bush itself. The reason is that its leaves and flowers, which are in the light, should not get any moisture drops on the surface, because this can cause sunburn.

Pot selection

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

When choosing a pot to plant the violet, pay attention to the fact that its root system is small.

Therefore, the container should be quite small. Also keep in mind that abundant flowering from the shrub can be waited for only when its roots completely fill the pot. To plant young bushes choose a small container, in cross section reaching 50 to 60 mm, and for older copies use a pot with a diameter of 70 to 90 mm. If the bush is very large, it may require a pot measuring 11 to 13 centimeters across.

When selecting a planting container, the following rule is recommended: the diameter of the leaf rosette must be three times larger than the diameter of the pot.

Remember, however, that such a flower grows much better in a normal plastic container than in a clay pot.

Suitable potting soil

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

You need a substrate of a certain composition to successfully cultivate your house violet. You can find ready-made bulking material for Saint Paulia at specialist stores. But many flower growers have already seen that it is suitable only for some varieties of senpolia. But all varieties of indoor violets will definitely suit a universal flower substrate (such as "Terra-Vita").

To prepare the earth mixture with your own hands, it is recommended to combine 2 parts humus and sand, 1 part sod soil and 4 parts leaf soil. Experienced flower growers advise, in 5 liters of ready substrate add ¼ cup of bone meal and ½ tbsp. superphosphate.

Whatever soil mixture you choose, remember that it must be well drained, moisture-holding and friable. When planting, do not forget to make a thick drainage layer at the bottom of the container (the thickness is equal to 1/3 of the pot height), vermiculite, sphagnum, expanded clay or small pieces of Styrofoam will do.

Thanks to this layer in the root system will not stagnate liquid. If it is not made, then it can lead to the death of the bush. Place 1 piece of charcoal on top of the drainage layer.

Potting violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Fill the drainage layer with a small amount of potting soil. A shrub is then placed in the center of the container.

Add fresh potting soil little by little, remembering to shake the container slightly to avoid voids. When the top edge of the pot is about 20mm, compact the surface of the potting soil a little, and then water the shrub.

Prinking violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Rooming room violets need systematic moistening of the potting soil mixture. Experts advise, to water such a flower through a tray (bottom watering). To do this, once every 7-10 days in a deep cup pour well settled water, the temperature of which should be slightly above room temperature.

Dip the container with the plant in it so that the liquid almost reaches the top of the pot, but does not go inside. Wait until the surface of the potting soil mixture starts to glisten with moisture. Then remove the flower from the cup and wait for the excess liquid to drain off.

If you water the senpilla very often or use only top watering, this can cause rotting on its root system. Specialists advise that you only moisten the potting soil after it has almost completely dried out.

If you grow at least one bush of senpolia with long-cheeked leaf plates, then it will be much easier for you to choose the right mode of watering. Just pay regular attention to the foliage: If the foliage starts to droop, it is time to water all your plant pots.

When! and how to water your violets? An important new tip!!!

Feeding

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

For this flower to grow and develop normally, it needs systematic feeding. The first feeding is done at the very beginning of the growing season. After that, the nutrient mixture continues to be added to the substrate with the frequency of once every 7-10 days.

At the beginning of the dormancy period any feeding should be discontinued. For violets, it is recommended to use complex mineral fertilizer for flowering crops in liquid form. Only half the dosage on the pack will be enough. Experienced growers recommend adding the fertilizer to the water used to water the flower via the tray.

Potting violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

To ensure a healthy and lush flowering bush, the potting soil should be replaced with fresh potting soil once a year.

Do not replace the container with a larger one every time, but only when necessary. You can understand that the root system of the flower is cramped in the pot by its appearance: the leaves become faded and shallow, and fewer flowers are formed. If you notice such changes, then transfer the shrub to a larger pot and it has to be only 20mm larger in cross section than the old one.

How to transplant a senpolia so it becomes diseased less and grows faster? The best time for transplanting is in March. Carry out this procedure very carefully, trying to keep the lump of soil intact.

As a rule, florists resort to the method of transplanting. After transplanting, pay attention to the root neck of the bush, it should be below the top edge of the pot by 20-30 mm. When the flower will be placed in a new container, on the bottom of which do not forget to previously lay a layer of drainage, you will only have to fill all the voids with a new earth mixture. To do this, it is recommended to periodically shake the pot a little. The transplanted flower needs obligatory watering.

Violets for beginners. Planting and transplanting

Trimming and shaping the leaf rosette

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The senpolia should have 3 tiers of leaf plates. The foliage below can be removed along with the petioles if desired, especially if the plates have lost their bright color or are dead. You should also periodically inspect the shrub and cut off any yellow or deformed leaf laminae and any flowers that have started to fade. In this way the shrub will always look neat and showy.

For the leaves to be evenly arranged in the rosette, the container with the flower should periodically be turned a little round its axis. If the lower leaf plates have been torn off, after a while the plant will have an exposed trunk. The more mature the shrub, the more visible its trunk, and this can severely spoil the appearance of the violet. There are a couple of ways you can remedy this situation:

  1. Repot the bush and bury the stem in the potting soil.
  2. Cut off the leaf rosette and the length of the remaining stem should be about 20mm.

    Put the cut rosette for rooting in a small container with water, and only the stub should be put in the liquid. When roots form, the rosette is placed in a new earth mixture.

Phygiene of violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Hygiene of the Saintpollias is important. In nature, such a plant is washed periodically by rainwater and dried by a warm wind. Therefore, it grows and develops perfectly there, and can reach a height of about 0.

3 meters.

Many flower growers do not know whether it is possible to shower the senpolia and moisten it with a sprayer? Experts say that both spraying and washing this plant under a warm shower is possible. After dirt and dust accumulate on the surface of the leaf plates, the bush is placed in the bath and watered from above with slightly warm water (the pressure should be weak). Then leave the flower in a darkened place until its leaves are completely dry. Only then it can be put in its usual place.

Otherwise, as a result of sunlight hitting the wet leaves, burns will form on their surface, representing light spots.

Propagation of violets

Flower growers use several methods for propagating domestic violets: baby plants, seeds and leaf cuttings. And the vegetative methods of propagation are the most popular.

How to propagate with offspring

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

In some cases, several daughter rosettes (offspring) may form on an adult bush. Once these rosettes have grown and become stronger, they feel a severe lack of space in the same pot as the parent plant.

As a result, the senpolia looks sluggish and weak. In this case, as soon as possible you should transplant the flower. It is removed from the pot and very carefully detached from his daughter rosettes, which are then planted in small individual containers. If the bush is strong and fully healthy, it can be transplanted even during the flowering period.

VERY-SOMETHING FILLING CHILDREN.

The trick

Propagation of violets by leaf

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The propagation of a senpilla by leaf cuttings is quite simple. Carefully cut off a firm, well-formed leaf plate from the second tier of the rosette along with the petiole. Take a glass of water and immerse the petiole in it. After a while it should develop roots. Note that the petiole should reach a length of approx.

40mm, and in the semi-miniature and miniature varieties at least 15mm.

Some growers, however, root the leaf cuttings in a substrate instead of water. To do this, take a small pot with holes for drainage, making sure to put a drainage layer on the bottom. The pot is filled with loose soil mixture, which includes leaf soil, coarse sand and peat (2:4:1). To maintain the necessary microclimate for rooting, the cuttings from above are covered with a transparent cover, such as a cut plastic bottle.

It is transferred to a well-lit and warm place, with no direct sunlight. Systematically moisten the soil mixture with a small amount of water, but make sure that the liquid does not stagnate. Rooting can take a long time. Often the leaf plate curls, wilts and dies off, but experienced florists recommend, wait a little longer and do not rush to throw it away. The fact is that the new violet is formed in the lowest part of the petiole, in this regard, you need only have patience.

After the surface of the substrate will appear new leaf plates, the old one - carefully trimmed. If the parent leaf plate is in good condition, you can try to re-root it by planting it in fresh substrate. From a single leaf cuttings, several new bushes can form at once. When they have grown a little and become stronger, they are taken out of the pot, separated and planted in individual containers.

The method of rooting in the substrate is bad because the florist can not determine whether the roots appeared or not.

However, cuttings in the substrate root faster than in water, and success is guaranteed in almost 100% of cases.

VIOLETS FROM SCRATCH. FOR BEGINNERS, A SHORT MASTERCLASS. From leaf to flower

Pests and diseases of violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The species senpollias have a rather high resistance to pests and diseases. However, varieties and hybrids obtained as a result of breeders' labors can give a florist a lot of trouble.

Diseases of violets with photos

The most common such plant is affected by powdery mildew, gray rot, fusarium, rust and phytophthorosis.

Mildew

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

If a whitish scum forms on the surface of leaf plates and petioles and flower stalks, the plant is affected by powdery mildew. There can be several reasons for the disease, namely: poor lighting, excessively high humidity in a cool room, lack of phosphorus and potassium against excessive nitrogen, heavy pollution of the leaf plates. To cure the sick bush, it should be treated with Bentlan or Fundazol. If the plant is very heavily infested, it must be treated again after a week and a half.

Phytophthora

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Fungal infection can enter the cracks or wounds on the roots of the senepole under certain conditions and cause Phytophthora. A sick plant begins to rot the root neck, and brown spots are formed on the surface of the leaf plates. The most susceptible to this disease are those plants that are not properly cared for. Phytophthorosis is very dangerous, because no effective way to combat it has not yet been invented. Therefore, to cure the sick bush is not possible.

It should be burned as soon as possible, with the remaining pot thoroughly disinfected. To prevent the disease, regular addition of superphosphate to the substrate and making sure the humidity in the room is not too high is recommended.

Gray rot, or Botrytis

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

If a fluffy, greyish-brown mould stain appears on the surface of the above ground part of the bush, it can be said to be infected with Botrytis (grey rot). The disease develops quickly and eventually the flower will die. All the darkened parts should be cut out, and then conduct treatment of the bush with a fungicidal drug.

The dead violet is thrown away together with the soil mixture. Be aware that a sudden change in temperature, a draft or stagnant liquid in the roots can provoke Botrytis.

Fusarium, or rotted rosettes

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Fusarium can cause the leaf rosette to rot. It can be caused by watering with cold water, overwatering the substrate, improper potting soil (too heavy), extreme temperature changes or an overly large pot. Sick violets leaf petioles turn brown, the leaves fly off, also observed darkening of the roots, and they can easily be removed from the substrate.

As soon as a diseased bush is noticed, all diseased parts are cut out and then treated with a fungicide solution.

Rust

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

If rust brown pads appear on the underside of leaf plates and orange-yellow bumps appear on the front, the bush is affected by rust. As the disease progresses, leaf laminae die off and fall off. To get rid of the fungus, the bush should be sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%) or other fungicide. Also, you can powder the plant with sulfur dust.

To prevent the fungus from attacking the plant, experts recommend using a solution of Fundazole once every couple of months.

Frequent diseases of the Violet (Senpillia) and how to treat them!

Pests of violets with photos

Pests of this plant such as: scales, aphids, nematodes, whiteflies, flies, spider mites, false scales, thrips, midges, midges and mosquitoes can settle on this plant.

Mites

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

If a mite is infested, you will notice brown depressed spots on the leaves as if someone poked the plant with a blunt needle. Different types of mites can settle on this flower: cyclamen mites, spider mites or flat mites. All of them suck plant sap from the flower, causing it to become sluggish and weak.

You can get rid of such a pest by using an acaricide such as Fytoverm, Actellic or Acarin. And the first two means should not only spray the plant, but also pour the soil mixture into the container. Remember that acaricide products are dangerous to humans. You should therefore outside or on a balcony and wear goggles, gloves and a mask.

Mite and Pythium Moths

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Mite and pythium moths affect violet varieties with smooth foliage most often.

Sticky droplets of secretions on the surface of the leaves are the first sign of their presence. Examine the shrub closely and if you find even a single adult, the whole shrub must be treated with Agravertin.

Thrips

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Most thrips are brought in with plants from the garden or bunches of flowers but they can also get into the house with poplar down. This pest multiplies very quickly, and it is also easy to move to nearby flowers. It damages foliage that leaves black or brown spots.

Thrips also damage stamens, and you can see silver-colored gnawing on flowers. A sick plant must be cut off all peduncles and sprayed with Actellic, Fytoverm or Actara solution.

Nematodes

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The root system of the senepole can be affected by nematodes, which are very small worms that live in the substrate. They feed on the sap of the plant and release toxins as they live. In an infected bush, galls can be found on the root system, which are swellings similar in shape to beads.

Leaf nematodes are also sometimes found that are harmful to the buds and foliage of violets. Initially, light-colored spots form on the leaf plates, with time they become darker and rot appears. A shrub infected with leaf nematode is very similar to one with gray rot. The only difference is the absence of mold. The diseased plant will have to be gotten rid of, since nematodes cannot be destroyed.

If you want, you can try to save the senpillia. To do this, find a fully healthy leaf plate and root it. To prevent nematodes, cultivate violets in peat-free soil and place 1 pill of Piperazine in the pot.

Worms

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Worms most often settle on young flower stems and also in leaf axils and folds. In areas stung by the pest, deformation of tissues is observed, with their color changing to brown or pale red.

The root system of the plant can be damaged by soil worms, which are not easy to detect. You can see them when replanting the bush: first of all, the substrate will have a fungal sour smell, and secondly, you can see the females, the top covered with a white coating. Outwardly, they look like a small piece of absorbent cotton or fluff. To get rid of pests that have settled on the above-ground part of the plant, it should be treated twice with a solution of Fytoverm or Aktellik. Soil worms are killed by sprinkling the substrate with Regeut, Mospilan or Dantol.

Three such treatments must be made at intervals of a week and a half.

Aphids

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Aphids suck sap from buds, pedicels and flowers of senpolia. This causes the petals to become deformed, which has a negative effect on the decorativeness of the plant. If there are many pests, a sticky liquid (aphid secretions) will appear on the flower stems and foliage. A sooty fungus will settle on it, resulting in a black coating on the flower.

The pest can be killed by spraying the bush twice or three times with Actellic (1 ml per liter of water).

Mocklice

Mocklice can appear if the substrate is too wet and never dries out. They look like small tortoises, but are about 15 mm long. The pest injures the foliage and root system, and secondary infection can join the plant. To get rid of the midges quickly, treat the soil and plant with an acaricide such as Actellic or Fytoverm.

Moths and Mosquitoes

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Moths and flies settle in a substrate if there is regular fluid retention. Adults do not harm the plant, but their larvae pose a great danger. They injure the root system and destroy the soil mixture. As a result, the substrate is compacted and the roots do not get the necessary amount of air. For young bushes, this pest poses the greatest danger.

Over time, the affected bush will develop rot on the shoots and root system. You can get rid of flies and mosquitoes by spilling the substrate with Karbofos, treating the edge of the pot with special crayon against cockroaches. And you can also crush the chalk and fill the surface of the soil mixture with a thin layer. Adult pests can be eliminated with Dichlorvos or Reid.

Footflies or Pimples

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Footflies can also find a home on the flower due to excessive dampness.

If there are too many pests, they can injure the violet's root system. Get rid of them by sprinkling the potting soil with Pyrethrum and adjusting the watering regime.

Whiteflies

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The white, small butterflies on the violet are whiteflies. They leave their sticky waste products on the leaves, on which the sooty fungus prefers to settle. As a result, the surface of the leaf plates first turns white, and then - black.

The affected flower stops the growth of stems. The pest can be exterminated with an acaricide mixed with a systemic insecticide. This will require at least two treatments.

Pests!!! How to recognize pests on violets and what to do about them?

Violet not blooming

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

A fairly common problem in growing senpolia is lack of blooming. This may be due to the following causes:

  • sufficient light;
  • short daylight hours;
  • too much nitrogen in the soil mixture;
  • dry air (optimum humidity about 50 percent);
  • incorrect watering;
  • substrate very dense and heavy;
  • overly large pot;
  • the plant is affected by disease or pests.

The violet does not flower but only the leaves are growing. Find out the causes and solve the problem.

The violet is turning yellow

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The old foliage can become yellow over time for quite natural reasons. It is advisable to cut it off along with the petioles. And if the foliage that has not yet become yellow, it can be due to: complete drying out of the root ball, direct sunlight or very high temperatures.

Water the shrub and be sure to shade it from the sun, if desired, the glass can be covered with a special sun protection film. If possible, move the shrub to a more suitable window: northwest, north or northeast. Remember that the pH of the substrate should be 5.5 to 6.5.

Also, that the flower not only needs phosphorus but nitrogen, too, in order to have green leaves.

If not only the leaves have turned yellow but also the stem base has turned brown and is softening, the room is too cold and the substrate is systematically stagnant.

Spots on violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

If the spots on the leaves are yellowish, then thrips have settled on the bush. If you see black spots on the plate under a magnifying glass, it is the spores of a disease-causing fungus. Sooty fungus is a black-colored plaque.

If sunburn occurs, round brownish spots form on flowers and leaves. A draft causes very small beige-gray spots to appear on the leaves in the form of stripes, blotches, and curls. If dark spots appear on the edge of the old leaves, this indicates a lack of potassium and the need for urgent replacement of the substrate. A whitish plaque and spots are powdery mildew. When affected by gray rot, spots of dark color covered with gray pubescence appear.

And rust causes dark red spots to form.

Spots on violet leaves. Tips for beginners!"

Views and varieties of violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The American classification of house violets is quite complicated, but you can still figure it out. The senpole varieties are classified according to the following criteria:

  1. Size of rosette: micromini mM (rosette about 60 mm across), mini M (rosette 10-15 cm), midi SM or semi-mini (rosette 15-20 cm), standard S (rosette 20-40 cm), large standard L (rosette 0.4 to 0.

    6 m). A separate category of violets are ampelous or trailing violets.

  2. Style of foliage: rounded, oblong-cordate, oval, kidney-shaped, oval-elongated, long-cellular, serrated, full-cut, corrugated or wavy. In addition, a leaf plate with a spot at the base is called a "gerl" and one without a spot is called a "battle". The foliage also varies in its surface: smooth, densely or weakly pubescent, quilted, spoon-shaped, variegated or monochromatic.

  3. Leaf color. The leaves may appear in various shades of green, almost black, greenish-gray, dark brown, olive green with pink speckles, white streaked or speckled. The underside is pale pink, purple with spots of purple, green with purple spots, greenish, practically white or dark purple.
  4. Type of flowers. They can be classical - like the violet tricolor; star-shaped - consisting of five equally sized petals; bell-shaped - petals arranged in 1-2 rows; rare wasp - petals upper lip curled and lower one wide; spider - long petals bent as if embracing a ball.

    Any of the flower types can be terry, semi-flowered or simple. But the bell-shaped ones are only hemispherical and simple. The flowers are also differentiated by their petal edges which can be rounded, torn, crimped, pointed or plain.

  5. Flower color. It can be monochromatic, two-colored (1 color but 2 shades), multi-colored or bicolored.

    Multicolored, bicolored and bicolored flowers are fantasy colors with different colors of dots, spots, speckles and rays, as well as rims, where the petals have one or two rims of the same or different colors of different width. There are two-colored finger color - the petal has oval or rounded spots of contrasting colors. There are special letter designations for the entire color range of violet flowers: C (Multicolor) - colored in different colors; B (Blue) - blue or blue; P (Pink, Rose) - dark or deep pink; R (Red, Mahagon, Plum, Burgundy) - mush red, cherry, red and plum; O (Orchid, Mauve, Levender) - lavender, light and pinkish-purple, orchid; V (Violet, Purple) - purple or violet; X (Bicolor) - colored in 2 colors; W (White, Creamy, Blash) - slightly pink, creamy or white; Y - yellow and white. More recently, the following colors have appeared: Beige, Pale, Orange, Indigo, Salmon, Ash, Blue, Terracotta, Electric, and Fuchsia. The flowers can be single (simple) with 5 or 6 petals, or tumbled and semi-tumbled with a pair of crinkled scalloped petals in the middle.

Popular violet cultivars with photos

Caprice

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The tumbled white flowers have a fringe of green along the edge of the petals. The foliage is wavy and pinnate.

Macho

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Big semi-flowered purple-burgundy flowers have a white border located on the wavy edge. Ovate simple foliage of green color.

Your Majesty

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Bulky pink flowers with wavy border.

The foliage is deep green.

Water

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Majestic blue flowers nearer the edge of the petals change their color to pink. The edge of the petals is fringed with a greenish-bronze border. Greenish foliage is wavy.

Marine Wolf

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Very large semi-major flowers reach up to 80 mm across.

Painted in a blue hue, the wavy petals stand out in a subtle reticulated pattern. The foliage is a dark green hue.

Tomagawk

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The lushly flowering variety is adorned with classic flowers of a deep red hue. The foliage is dark green in color.

Paris Mysteries

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Majestic large flowers are colored in a dark black and purple hue, all petals have an iridescent mesh pattern of amethyst red on the surface.

The middle petals are joined together to form a dense little ball. The petals have a greenish-white ruffle along the fringed edge. The mottled festooned leaf plates are colored white and green.

Jabo

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The maroon flower has petals of a dark blue hue and is gathered into a spike. They have a twisted ruffle on the edge of them, of a deep salal shade.

The foliage is wavy green.

Max Black Pearl

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

The flowers are velvety black with a purple hue. The leaves are semi-miniature and compact.

There are no varieties with yellow and green flowers yet. However, there are varieties with a yellowish hue or pattern on the foliage - Majesty, Sunkist Rose, Lemon Kisses and Warm Sunrise.

There are varieties with a verdure that are called green: Silverglade Apples, Frozen in Time, Bakkai Irish Lace, Irish Cream, Spring Rose, Green Lace, etc.

The most beautiful and popular species and varieties of indoor Violet! Incredible beauty!"

Parables associated with violets

Violets: care and propagation at home, transplanting and propagation

Since the house violet is incredibly popular in indoor culture, there are many omens and superstitions associated with it. For example, this flower is a "mugwort." A married woman who grows a senpilla risks losing her spouse, and an unmarried woman - will be alone all her life. However, this superstition is not confirmed, and many women who have a violet at home, happy in marriage.

Also many superstitious people believe that the senpolia - is an energy vampire. It is by no means recommended to put it in the bedroom, as it will make you sleepy and broken. Like any other plant, in the daytime senpolia produces oxygen, and at night it absorbs it. This is why you should not keep in the bedroom a lot of plants.

Astrologists say that senpollias absorbed the energy of the Moon and Taurus, so they create comfort in the home, soothe people and lift the mood.

They also have the power of a talisman, attracting into the home stability, prosperity and harmony. And they also make a person wiser, more resilient and inspire new achievements.

Can I keep a Violet in my house? Omen and superstitions about Senpollias.

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