Remontant raspberries are a special group of varieties characterized by their ability to bear fruit on two-year and one-year shoots. Such varieties appeared in gardening about 200 years ago. The remontant raspberry can produce either one or two crops per year. However, note that the second crop will be of lower quality.
Breeders began working in the seventies of the 20th century to create raspberry varieties that would be adapted to the climatic conditions of the middle latitudes.
Today there is a large selection of remontant varieties, which are relatively popular among gardeners. Among all varieties, the one that stands out is the stemmed raspberry, which has a very strong stem that does not bend even under the weight of the berries.
Brief description of growing
- Planning. Early in the spring period or the last days of September or the first days of October.
Plenty of bright sunlight.
- Ground. Light loamy fertile soil rich in nutrients is suitable. The optimum pH is 5.8-6.
7. If possible, it is recommended to choose a site after black steam. The groundwater table should be at least 100 cm deep.
- Watering. Systematically and abundantly about once every 7 days.
However, during dry times this procedure is done more often. The soil in the raspberry bed must be slightly moist all the time. During irrigation, the soil should soak to a depth of 0.3 to 0.4 m.
Shortly before the beginning of flowering, as well as during the growth and ripening of berries, watering must be timely. Carrying out winter watering falls in October, it should be very abundant. The drip method of watering is excellent for raspberries.
- Fertilizer. If the seedlings were planted in fertilized soil, no fertilizing is done for 2 years.
Then the plants are fertilized every year. The best is an organic fertilizer, such as a solution of chicken manure (1:20) or fermented cowpea (1:10). However, if the plantings are mulched with humus or compost, then organic fertilizer can not be used. Superphosphate is applied only at the time of planting seedlings. Shrubs need regular feeding with potassium (without chlorine).
- Trimming. In the spring months, during the swelling of the buds, sanitary pruning is carried out. At this time, rootstock is also removed. When fruiting is over, all stems are pruned. In the spring time, healthy young stems will emerge that can bear fruit.
- Reproduction. Green cuttings and rootstock of 4-5 year old plants (but only if the variety forms them).
- Pests. Aphids, raspberry mites, raspberry bugs, spider mites and caterpillars.
Anthracnose, Verticillosis (wilt), mottle, mosaic, Didymella (purple spot), septoriosis, root cancer (root goitre), bush dwarfism and infectious chlorosis.
Malina remontant. Features of planting and care
The raspberry is a perennial shrub. Its main roots are placed at a depth of 15 to 30 centimeters. Its adventitious roots can extend outward from the plant by 200 to 300 centimeters.
Rejuvenated raspberry is very similar to a common raspberry, but some varieties have practically no rootstock at all, other varieties have a low reproduction rate.
Remontant raspberry grows young stems on which fruits are formed in spring time every year. The top of the stem that bears fruit during the growing season withers by the beginning of the winter period. On the part that remains, with the onset of spring, fruit branches are formed, and this is also observed in common varieties. And also in such raspberries, the period of fruiting is stretched, so the fruits on bushes are formed throughout the season.
In addition to that, there are other advantages of the "repair raspberry" comparing to the ordinary raspberry such as:
- It is rather resistant to pests and diseases, therefore almost never suffering from worms;
- it is less demanding in maintenance;
- all varieties with the last exception are big-fruited.
Raspberry is very popular today. Both experienced and novice gardeners enjoy growing it.
Planting remontant raspberries
What time to plant
Malines grow best in nutritious, moist and light soil. The site should be chosen such that the minimum depth of groundwater is 100 cm.
As for remontant raspberries, they are even more light- and moisture-loving, as well as high demand for soil nutrition and moisture supply. A suitable site for planting should have reliable protection from the wind, and also necessarily be sunny, because in the shade the bushes begin to bear fruit later, while the harvest is more scarce.
The best such raspberry grows on fertile loam, the pH of which is 5.8-6.7.
If the soil is acidic, it is necessary to resort to liming, for this purpose marl, dolomite or ground limestone are used. For planting seedlings is excellent for a plot that was under black fallow or on which such siderates as rye, mustard or lupine were grown (6 weeks before planting raspberries, they should be plowed into the soil).
Please note that for planting such shrubs is not suitable for a plot on which potatoes, raspberries, peppers or tomatoes were previously grown. The fact is that these plants lead to soil depletion, due to which the planted raspberries will feel an acute shortage of minerals and trace elements.
Saplings can be planted in the open ground in the early spring period.
However, they are best planted in autumn in the last days of September or first days of October. How to plant raspberries.
If you plan to plant remontant raspberry seedlings in the springtime, then you must prepare your plot in autumn. To begin with, it is necessary to dig it to the depth of the bayonet of the spade, having previously removed all weeds from it. During the digging 20-30 liters of humus or high-moor peat and 1 tbsp of potassium sulfate and superphosphate (0.
2-0.4 kg of complex mineral fertilizer can be replaced) per square meter should be introduced into the soil.
In spring time make holes of 40x40x40 cm in size, the distance between them should be about 0.7 meters, with the width between rows - at least 1.5 meters.
When selecting seedlings, you need to pay attention to the system of roots, which should be well developed. The shoot at the base should reach at least 0.5 centimetres across and be about 20 centimetres long.
To understand whether a seedling is suitable for planting or not, before buying it, cut out one of its buds, while picking the bark on the stem. The bark on the side that is adjacent to the wood should be green, and the bud should be alive, not withered.
Before planting, the dried root system should be immersed for 1-2 days in a solution of a product that stimulates root growth. During this time, it will have time to swell well.
In the prepared holes, place the seedlings, then fill them with nutritious soil. Plant remontant raspberries so that their root neck is level with the surface of the plot. If the soil is sandy, then deepen the root neck in the soil can be a maximum of 40 mm.
When the seedling is planted, it should be watered. After the liquid has been completely absorbed into the soil, its surface should be covered with a layer of mulch.
Raspberry remontant planting in spring
Planning in autumn
As mentioned above, planting raspberries in the ground is recommended in the autumn time. The site is prepared for planting in the spring: it is ploughed over, and all fertilizers are added to the soil. Further planting of seedlings is done according to the same rules as in spring.
Raspberry planting in autumn without mistakes. A step-by-step guide from a biologist
Raspberry care in spring
Early spring is the time to start caring for remontant raspberries. In the early days, when the soil has not yet thawed, the bush should be fertilized with a full mineral fertilizer.
Sanitary pruning of the bushes occurs in April. All stems that have withered or frozen should be shortened to the first live and healthy bud.
If at the end of last season you suspected that pathogenic fungi have settled on the plants, then it is necessary to treat them in mid-spring with a solution of Nitraphen or iron sulfate, the concentration of which should be equal to 1%. If the bushes are absolutely healthy, then the first time they are treated for prevention at the very beginning of May, for this purpose fungicidal preparations are used, for example: Ridomil or Topaz.
In the spring time, the remontant raspberry also needs foliar feeding. For this purpose, a solution of full mineral fertilizer is suitable, in which a growth stimulating agent is added. In the last days of May the bushes are treated against pests with any biological insecticide preparation, for example: Lepidocide or Actophyt.
Guarantee regular watering of the raspberry (about once in 7 days), loosening the soil surface and removing weeds. Remember that the plant reacts negatively to compacted soil and the presence of weeds. The first time the surface of the plot should be loosened in early spring before the buds open: the soil around the bushes is loosened to a depth of 50 to 80 mm, and between the rows to a depth of 100-150 mm. If you do not cover the soil surface with a layer of mulch, then it should be loosened 4-6 times during the season.
Raspberry care in summer
The raspberry remontant should be watered systematically during the summer, and also loosen the soil as needed.
Strong-growing varieties will need to be tied or pinned to supports. To begin with, install strong tall fasteners, which are driven into the ground every 3 m. Then string or wire between them at two or three levels at 0.5m, 1m and 1.5m above the ground.
This is why it is highly discouraged to protect raspberries against diseases and pests with pesticides in summer.
In order to prevent the fruits from being burned by the scorching sunlight, the bushes are provided with protection. A thin spunbond or netting is placed over them.
Tips of growing remontant raspberries
Raspberry care in autumn
Such raspberries often bear fruit in autumn before the first frost. Those stems that have aged should be pruned before winter.
In newly planted bushes, it is recommended to shorten all shoots to 20 centimeters, with a full pruning already in the next season. When all the shrubs have been cut, the area should be cleared of stale mulch and plant debris. All garbage should be burned as it can be a source of disease or pests.
Afterwards, winter watering of raspberries should be carried out. Then the soil should be well loosened up by turning the soil layer back and covered with a winter mulch layer about 100mm thick, using humus or semi-digested manure.
Water the maintenance raspberry regularly with enough water. Watering on average is recommended once every 7 days. However, during prolonged droughts, it is advisable to moisten the soil in the raspberry bed more frequently. Make sure the soil on the plot is always slightly moist. Especially closely monitor the moisture content of the soil shortly before flowering, and also during active growth and ripening of berries.
In the deep autumn it is required to carry out moisture-intensive very abundant watering.
Although this plant is moisture-loving, it negatively reacts to stagnation of moisture in the soil. Overwatering the soil can harm the remontant raspberry even more than scarce and infrequent watering. In overwatered soil, air flow to the root system is significantly impaired, and also the soil becomes very cold. As a result, the development of the plant is greatly delayed, especially in spring.
Drip irrigation is best for this crop. It helps to moisten the soil evenly and save water. However, such a shrub may well be watered from a hose, and it will also suit it aryknyh watering. To do this, make rolls of soil with a height of 10 to 15 centimeters around the rows. When watering, water is poured into a not very deep ditch available under the roller.
Remember that for watering remontant raspberries, it is necessary to use not cold water, so it is necessarily poured into a large container and wait until it warms up. If the soil surface in the raspberry bed has been covered with mulch during the spring, then watering should be done much less frequently.
Drip irrigation on remontant raspberries
If the fertilizer was applied to the soil in full during the preparation of the site for planting (see above), then the plants will not need to be fertilized for 2 years. From the third year of raspberry growth, fertilization begins to be carried out every year. Such a culture responds well to feeding with organic fertilizers, because they contain all the nutrients needed for normal plant development.
And yet such fertilizers help to improve the structure of the soil.
Best for fertilizing remontant raspberries suitable organic fertilizer such as a solution of chicken manure (1:20) or fermented cowpea (1:10). During the growing season, organic fertilizer is introduced into the soil 2 or 3 times: 3 to 5 liters per 1 square meter of land. However, if you systematically cover the surface of the ground with a layer of mulch (compost or humus), then fertilization with organic fertilizers can be not carried out.
Also remontant raspberry needs fertilization and mineral fertilizers.
In this case, most often superphosphate is enough to apply to the soil only once at the time of planting the seedlings. However, if the plant will feel a lack of potassium, it will lead to shriveling of leaves, the edge of the plates will become brown, and the tissue between the veins will wither and die. Note that only potash fertilisers without chlorine, such as potassium sulphate or potassium magnesia, are suitable for fertilising such shrubs.
For full mineral fertilisers, Nitroammophoska or similar products are most commonly used by gardeners to fertilise such shrubs. Their application is carried out at the beginning of the spring period, with 50 to 100 grams per 1 square meter.
Instead every 1m² can be covered with 20-40 grams of potassium sulphate and the same amount of urea, and 50-80 grams of superphosphate.
Rapid Raspberry Cultivation/Spring Raspberry Fertilization
Transplanting Raspberry Replants
To cultivate the same spot without replanting the raspberry for 10-15 years. Transplant after the fruit begins to become shallower or the yields become more sparse. After the plant is dug up, it is divided into several parts, and then the cut places are covered with crushed charcoal. Then each partition is planted in a new permanent place.
In some cases, replanting of the berry bush has to be carried out due to the fact that originally an unsuitable area was selected for its planting.
Pereplanting such raspberries at the same time of the year and according to the same scheme as the initial planting of seedlings.
Remontant raspberries in winter
Remontant raspberries are highly resistant to frost, so they do not need mandatory winter shelter, just mulch the soil surface in the raspberry bed with a thick layer. However, if the winter is expected to have little snow and frost, then the ground is covered with a layer of hay. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out the installation of a barrier, which will protect the hay from being blown away by the wind.
If the shoots were not cut in autumn, they should be bent down to the soil surface and pressed with a wooden board or plank. Top them off with a layer of cranberries or foliage.
Remontant Raspberry Pruning
Raspberry Spring Pruning
If some of the plants were not pruned in autumn, they should be examined after the winter for withered, cracked or frostbitten areas. All damaged plants should be subjected to sanitary pruning, with the injured stem being shortened to the first healthy bud. There is no need to shorten perfectly healthy shoots as this may cause delayed fruiting or reduced yields.
Pruning is carried out during the swelling of the buds. The fact is that during this period you can easily distinguish healthy buds from diseased ones.
If a variety is planted on your plot that forms many root sprouts, then it is necessary to cut them out in time. No more than 10-15 shoots can be left on a 1 square meter plot, with ½ being biennial fruiting stems and the other half being substitute annual stems.
Cutting in autumn
Specialists recommend that, at the end of fruiting, all raspberry shoots be cut back to the root.
As spring arrives, young stems will emerge in their place and will quickly grow, mature, form flowers and be able to produce a decent crop. Since there will be no place for pests and pathogenic microbes to overwinter after the fall pruning, the young stems that have grown back will be completely healthy. In addition, the most common raspberry pests have a development cycle almost completely coinciding with the period of ripening of berries of ordinary raspberries. For this reason, the fruits of remontant raspberries are affected by pests much less frequently.
DON'T prune a remontant raspberry in autumn until you have seen this video
Most varieties of remontant raspberry almost never form root scions.
However, there are a few varieties that regularly produce root shoots. 4-5 year old plants produce the greatest amount of rootstock, and a site may produce anywhere from 2-15 offspring. Once the shoots are 50-100 mm high, they should be dug up and planted in a school bed. Carry out this procedure in cloudy weather. The soil on the bed should be moistened, and its surface should be covered with a layer of mulch.
Then protect the plants from direct sunlight.
Then take care of them by systematically watering and removing weeds. Once the bushes are fully established (after about 15 days), they will no longer need the sun shade. By the beginning of the autumn period, the transplanted scions will have grown, grown stronger and become quality seedlings. At this time they can be transplanted to a permanent location.
Root cuttings multiplication
In the fall, when loosening the soil surface in the raspberry bed, remove the bush root, which should be at least 20 mm across, from the ground. It should be cut into several pieces, and the length of the pieces can vary from 80 to 120 mm. Prepare a groove 60-80 mm deep and plant the pieces in it in a continuous row. Backfill the furrow, water generously and cover the area with a layer of mulch on top. Throughout the next season, this area should be watered, weeded and hoeed regularly.
Conduct timely feeding of young bushes, and do not forget about treatments against diseases and pests. In the fall, the grown bushes can be planted permanently.
A simple and easy way to propagate remontant raspberries with root cuttings.
Propagation with green cuttings
Prepare cuttings in late spring. They are cut from annual stems, which should be no more than 30-40mm high and part of which should be underground.
Each cutting should have 1 leaf rosette. When harvesting cuttings, the cut is made under the ground at a depth of 50 to 60 mm, and it is taken together with an earthy clod. The places of cuts are powdered with powdered charcoal. Cuttings should be immediately planted on the bed in the greenhouse, using the scheme of 5x10 centimeters. Plant the cuttings to the same depth as they grew before transplanting.
For the cuttings to root well and quickly, use a substrate consisting of peat and river sand. Water in a timely manner, protect the cuttings from overheating, and once they have rooted, ventilate the greenhouse regularly so that the young plants can take root. After they are able to spend the day and night without cover, transplant them to a permanent location.
For details on how to propagate the crop by bush division, see "Repotting".
"The easiest way to root raspberries", /Remontant Raspberry Propagation!
Pests and diseases of the remontant raspberry
Diseases and their treatment
Raspberry is more disease-resistant than the common one. However, it is still sometimes affected by both diseases and pests. Most often such a shrub is affected by fungal diseases, for example, purple spot disease (Didymella), septoriosis, anthracnose or Verticillosis (Wilt). The most effective against fungal diseases are fungicides such as Topaz, Fundazol, Switch, Bordeaux mixture, Oxychom, Fitosporin, Skor, Amistar etc.
Besides fungi such raspberries are also affected by bacterial diseases: goitered roots, or root cancer.
A diseased plant cannot be cured. That is why such diseases are fought with preventive measures: during the selection of seedlings, conduct a thorough inspection, do not forget to strengthen the immune system of the plant, be sure to adhere to agricultural rules of culture, ensure proper care, and also systematically conduct preventive treatments.
The greatest danger for raspberry is represented by viral diseases such as: bush dwarfism, infectious chlorosis, curl or mosaic. Such diseases are dangerous because to date no effective remedy has been found to help combat them. Therefore, if a diseased plant appears on the plot, it is dug up and burned.
Also sometimes the remontant raspberry is affected by such an incurable disease as mycoplasma disease, which is also called witch's broom, or overgrowth. Fighting incurable diseases is pointless, but preventive measures can help keep your plants from being affected. To do this, systematically inspect the bushes and if you find affected bushes, they are immediately dug up and burned. The area where the diseased specimens have been growing must not be used for planting raspberries for several years.
Give the plants the most suitable growing conditions and care.
Fertilize in a timely manner, as this helps to strengthen the immunity. Weed the area in good time and don't forget to control pests, which are the main vectors of dangerous diseases. For planting, use absolutely healthy planting material. Remember that the plot with the remontant raspberry should be as far away as possible from the place of cultivation of the common raspberry. The fact is that it is more often affected by both pests and diseases that can easily be transmitted to the remontant raspberry.
Diseases and treatment of raspberries. Anthracnose. Septoriosis. Didymella. Gray rot(Botrytis)
Pests and control
A lot of pests can settle on remontant raspberries, but most often aphids, caterpillars, raspberry bugs, and also raspberry and spider mites.
Remember, it is highly discouraged to treat bushes with pesticides after the beginning of flowering.
Experienced gardeners often use plant-based products for pest control. For example, infusion of garlic or onion husks can be used to control mites. To prepare it, 100 grams of crushed garlic cloves or onion husks are placed in a bucket of water. The infusion will be ready after two to three days, after which it is filtered and mixed with 50 grams of laundry soap, which must first be dissolved in slightly warm water.
If desired, soap can be replaced with concentrated dishwashing liquid.
Sucking and leaf-eating pests are controlled with ashes. To do this, take 1 liter of wood ash and half a bucket of water, mix them together. Then add green laundry soap, which is ground on a grater and dissolved in 1 liter of water. A small bottle of 30 to 50 ml is half filled with cold water.
Then pour into it 1 dessert or teaspoon of kerosene. Tightly closed bottle should be shaken vigorously for a few minutes. This promotes even mixing of the components. After that, strain the first two solutions, combine them with each other and pour in kerosene water. In the end, bring the volume of the resulting solution to 10 liters and immediately begin treating the bushes.
If pests have settled on the crop before the flowers open, then you can treat it with biological insecticides such as: Actofit, Bitoxibacillin or Lipidocide.
#4 What's up with the raspberry??? Raspberry pests, Raspberry fly, Raspberry beetle on remontant raspberries.
Early Remontant Raspberry
The early remontant raspberry varieties include those that mature in the last days of July and the first - August. For example:
- Heracles. This large-fruited variety is characterized by resistance to diseases and pests, as well as stable yields.
Its upright stems do not require support or garter. Fruiting zone is located on ½ of the stem length. The strain is characterized by its thin, sharp thorns and very large, ruby-colored fruits (weighing about 10 grams). It has a truncated-conical form with a refreshingly sweet and sour taste. Fruiting begins in the first days of August and ends with the first frosts.
- Brilliant. The fruits of this high-yielding variety mature in the first decade of August. The bush reaches a height of up to 1.5 meters. Soft needles are placed at the base of the stem.
The fruiting zone occupies ½ the height of the shoot. The bright ruby glossy conical fruits are relatively large (weighing about 7 grams). They have a sweet and sour dessert taste.
- Bryanskaya Jubilee. The bushes of this abundantly fruiting variety are compact and medium height.
The ripening of the fruits is observed in the last days of July. The rich red elongated fruits are medium to large (up to 6 grams). The taste is sweet and sour.
- Abricot. This variety is among the most exotic.
It has a very high resistance to pests and diseases. The needles are placed only in the lower part of the stem. The amber-golden fruits are obtuse cone-shaped and weigh 3 to 4 grams. They have a pleasant apricot flavor. Ripening berries observed in the first days of August.
Fruiting ends with first frosts.
- Eurasia. This large-fruited variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to pests and diseases. It has bent stems with sparse needles along its entire length. The sweet-sour, dark raspberry fruits are dense, conical in shape and can weigh more than 6 grams.
Raspberry Remontant. The BEST varieties
Midripening varieties are those with ripening fruit from mid to late August. For example:
- Orange Wonder. This large-fruited variety is characterized by high yield and disease resistance. Its intense orange fruits have an elongated tupoconic shape with a weight of up to 12 grams and a length of up to 40 mm.
The taste of the berries is sweet and sour and dessert-like. Fruiting ends with the onset of the first frost.
- Rubin Necklace. This rich ruby-colored variety has large (over 8 grams) and dense ruby-colored fruits. They have a refreshingly sweet and sour flavor.
The needles are at the bottom of the stems.
- Mulatka. A high-yielding variety rarely affected by pests and diseases. Sweetish-sour dark cherry glossy round-shaped fruits are found as medium to large (weight about 5 grams).
- Golden Autumn.
A large-fruited variety characterized by high yields. Its soft, short needles are at the bottom of the stems. The dense, elongated conical fruits are golden yellow in color and weigh up to 7 grams. The berries have a pleasant raspberry odor, and a dessert taste as well.
- The Firebird.
This is a large-fruited, high-yielding variety. Its thin and soft needles are absent only at the tops of the stems. Its conical fruits weigh about 6 grams. They have a sweet and sour dessert flavor and juicy tender flesh.
Late-ripening varieties of remontant raspberries ripen in the last days of August or in September.
There are relatively few of them, for example:
- Heritage. This variety was created by American breeders by crossing three varieties: Cutberg, Durham and Milton. It is resistant to disease and frost. Its rounded red, fragrant fruits ripen during the last days of August or first days of September. A variety created by Polish breeders.
The yellow berries ripen during the last summer weeks. They have a sweet and sour taste and weigh up to 8 grams.
- Otm Trege. This variety is highly resistant to pests and diseases. The elongate-conical, juicy, dense fruit has a reddish hue, a pleasant taste, and a weight of about 5 grams.
It is the result of a cross between the varieties Glen Moi and Othm Cascade.
- Sugana (Sugana). A medium-late variety of Swiss selection resistant to drought. The medium-sized fruits have a pleasant taste. With proper care the weight of berries can reach 10 grams.
- Erica. Among the best productive varieties bred by Western European breeders. Delicious dense fruits of dark red hue are very large and glossy.
Sorts for Moscow suburbs
In conditions of middle latitudes, gardeners grow many varieties of remontant raspberries, and the most popular are frost-resistant and high-yielding ones. In the Moscow region such varieties are cultivated as:
- Bryanskoye divo.
A high-yielding variety with powerful shoots that do not need support. The elongated conical red fruits have a mass of about 20 grams. Ripening of the berries begins in mid-summer, with fruiting ending only in the last days of September.
- Polka. This hybrid is the result of the work of Polish breeders, and is the result of crossing the experimental specimen line P89141 and the variety Otm Bliss.
The plant has a high shoot formation. Ripening of the fruit is observed from August until the first frost. The elongated dense very large fruits of a rich purplish hue with a glossy finish have a mass of about 12 grams.
- Atlant. A large-fruited, high-yielding variety that is little affected by diseases and pests.
Rare and short needles are placed only at the bottom of the stems. The large elongated-conical fruits are fairly dense, weighing about 9 grams. The tender and juicy flesh of the berries has a sweet and sour taste.
- Penguin. An early stem type variety rarely affected by pests and diseases.
The stems are covered underneath with medium sized dark colored needles. Dark crimson fruits have a rounded-conical shape.
- Sheep's Summer. An early high-yielding variety resistant to raspberry mite and disease. Juicy delicious fruits have ruby color.
Raspberry remontant varieties for the Moscow region. Which varieties of remontant raspberries to choose for the suburbs.
Sorts for Siberia
When choosing a variety suitable for Siberia, it must be remembered that the key to a good harvest is the early awakening of bushes in spring. For frosty winters and short summers, varieties such as:
- Monomakh's Cap are suitable. This productive variety is shaped like a stunted tree.
There are virtually no needles on its stem. The tuponic bright red fruits are large in size (about 20 grams).
- Unreachable. The highly productive early variety has a stem up to 1.6 m high.
It begins fruiting in the last days of July and finishes in October. Tender rich red fruits have a mass of about 7 grams and a sweet and sour taste.
- Augustina. The shoots of this productive variety are covered with short needles. The dark crimson fruits are broadly shaped and weigh about 4.
5 grams. The flesh is tender, dense and sweet.
- Real. Characterized by a stable high yield and resistance to adverse weather conditions. Its very tasty, fragrant, obtunding red and shiny fruits weigh about 5 grams.
There are so many varieties of remontant raspberries today, of which it is extremely difficult to choose the best. That said, the most popular among gardeners are varieties such as: Yellow Giant, Atlant, Apricot, Hercules, Indian Summer and Penguin.
Raspberry remontant is gradually replacing the ordinary raspberry from private gardens. And this is not surprising, because it has a lot of advantages. That is why breeders are trying to breed more and more new varieties.
The most active breeding work in this area began from the beginning of the 21st century, when such varieties as Brilliant, Inaccessible, Hercules, Monomakh's Cap and Penguin were born. Among the varieties that have appeared relatively recently, Autumn Beauty, Golden Domes and Augustov Miracle attract the most attention.
dessert varieties of remontant raspberries