The herbaceous perennial plant Micania (Mikania) is directly related to the Compositae family. It is native to Central and South America.
In domestic conditions, florists grow only one species of this plant, Micania ternata (Mikania ternata). This herbaceous plant is a perennial. Young specimens have upright shoots, but with age they become loping.
It is grown as an ampel plant, using special baskets for this purpose, and you can also wrap the stems around the support. The palmately compound leaf plates consist of five rhombic-shaped segments. The leaf at the top is the largest, so it is about 5 centimeters long. The 2 leaves in the middle are 2.5-3 centimeters long, while the 2 lower ones are 1.
5-2 centimeters long. The surface of the leaf plates is velvety and there are notches on the edges, the thin petioles are colored brownish. The front surface of the leaves has a dark green color and there are red veins running along the veins, while the underside is purple.
Micania care at home
Needs bright light, but it should be diffuse. The plant also needs direct rays of the evening or morning sun.
In winter the light must remain as bright.
The most suitable temperature for cultivation is a moderate one. So, in summer it should be 18 to 20 degrees and in winter it should be about 14 to 15 degrees. At the same time, make sure that the room is not colder than 12 degrees. It needs systematic ventilation.
This plant simply needs increased humidity, but it is worth remembering that you should not moisten the leaves from a sprayer. The droplets that collect on the surface of the leaves after spraying contribute to the appearance of specks, which significantly worsens the appearance of the flower. To increase the humidity and keep the attractiveness of the plant, you need to pour clay pebbles or sphagnum in a wide tray and pour not a lot of water. Make sure that the bottom of the pot does not come into contact with the liquid.
How to water
Summer watering is required and make sure the soil is always slightly moist (not wet).
However, there must not be any stagnant water in the soil. In wintertime, you need to water less. Thus, watering only after a good drying of the soil in the pot. But make sure you do not completely dry out the soil.
Feeding is done in spring and summer once every 2 weeks.
A balanced liquid fertilizer is used, as it contains phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium in equal amounts. For fertilizer, take a solution of a weaker concentration of 2 or 3 times the one recommended on the package.
Precautions for transplanting
Transplanting is done in the spring time. Young plants should be transplanted once a year and mature plants once every two or three years. To prepare the soil mixture should be combined leaf and turf soil and sand and peat in a ratio of 2:1:1:1.
Also suitable is purchased universal soil for ornamental and deciduous plants. Do not forget to make a good drainage layer at the bottom of the container.
Propagation can be done by apical cuttings. During the springtime a cutting of the apical cuttings is done. It is then treated with a growth stimulant and then placed in small pots for rooting.
The container should be covered with glass or film and put in a warm (about 20 degrees) place. Every day you should remove the cover for a while to air it out. Keep the soil slightly moist all the time.
Pests and diseases
Trips and red spider mites may settle. And it can become diseased with powdery mildew and white rot.
Mildew - A whitish-gray powdery growth forms on the surface of the leaves. The spots gradually become larger and turn brown. Leaves curl and then die. This disease appears most often in rooms with high humidity, with a temperature of about 18-20 degrees and with stagnant air. To get rid of this disease, treat with fungicide, an antibiotic solution (penicillin + streptomycin 100 units/ml).
The flower should be treated again after 5-7 days.
Gray rot - This disease prefers high humidity and coolness. A fluffy, ashy gray scum forms on the surface of infected parts of the flower. Brown spots appear on the surface of the shoots and leaves, or the edge of the leaf plates begin to turn brown. To get rid of such rot, systematic ventilation, bright lighting, and loosening of the substrate are required.
Treat with a solution of Fundazole or Topsin-M.
Red Spider Mite - Thin webs and whitish spots appear between the leaf plates. This pest prefers low humidity. Treatment with systemic insecticide (Fufanon, Fytoverm, Actellic) is required.
Trips - this insect prefers dry and very warm air.
Thrips deposits numerous colonies on the underside of the leaf plate, with pale dots forming on the front side. Gradually, the front side of the leaflet becomes a brownish-gray color with a silvery cast. Treatment with one of the following insecticides is then required: decis, inta-vir, fytoverm or actellic.
- Leaf platens become shallow and shoots become elongated - sparse light.
- Leaf tips become thin and brownish - low moisture.
- Leaves become pale and drooping - overflow, stagnant liquid in soil.