Hatiora: Home Care, Replanting And Propagation, Species

The Hatiora cactus is native to Brazil, more specifically to its tropical forests. According to various sources, this genus includes 5-10 species, and only some of them are cultivated in domestic conditions. Some systematists believe that this plant is part of the genus Ripsalis. At first, this genus was called "Chariot" after the famous traveler and mathematician from England, Thomas Harriot, who was among the first explorers of the nature of America. However, it was not long before specialists realized that the name of this plant was already different, so they had to change it to an anagram: Hariota for chatiorea.

Brief description of cultivation

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

  1. Flowering. In April or May, the bush is decorated with apical yellow, red or pink flowers.
  2. Brightness. Bright sunlight is necessary. A south-facing window is fine, but in the afternoons the bush is protected from the scorching rays of the sun.

  3. Temperature regime. In winter, 12 to 14 degrees and in spring and summer, 18 to 25 degrees. Make sure that the differences between night and day temperatures are within 5 to 6 degrees.
  4. Pouring. Moisten the substrate in the pot moderately, but only after its surface has dried well.

    During the dormancy period, watering should be more infrequent, about once every 20 days. When 30 minutes have passed after watering, don't forget to empty the tray of excess liquid.

  5. Air Humidity. Since this is a succulent plant, the humidity level is not important to it.
  6. Fertilizer.

    Fertilize the plant in spring and summer once every 15 days with a low-nitrogen, calcium-free compound mineral fertilizer. At other times no fertilizer is added to the substrate.

  7. Dormant period. Not pronounced.
  8. Trimming.

    To keep the bush looking spectacular and neat, pinch off all excess segments with fingers in early spring.

  9. Repotting. At the end of flowering in the springtime. Young bushes are transplanted every year, older ones once every 2-3 years, and older large plants once every 5 years.
  10. Propagation.

    By grafting and cuttings.

  11. Pests. Mealybugs, scabs and spider mites.
  12. Diseases. Phytophthora and stem rot.

Peculiarities of Chathiora

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Chathiora cactus is a shrub whose shoots are articulate. The shape of the segments in the different species can be cylindrical, club-shaped or flat.

What is the difference between a Chathiora and a Ripsalis? In nature, the succulent plant Chathiora prefers to grow on rocks and in crevices, while the epiphyte Ripsalis can be found on tree trunks. Also, these plants can be distinguished by the direction of growth of the shoots: the stems of Ripsalis are drooping, while the stems of Chathiora grow upwards. Also, the tip flowers of the chathioras may be yellow, pink or red, while the ones of the rhipsalis grow along the whole length of the stem segment and are whitish-yellow or white.

Otherwise, these flowers are very close relatives, and the growing conditions are the same for them.

HATIORA. All about care and propagation at home.

Hatiora care at home

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Hatiora light

Hatiora care in the room is quite simple. However, it is very important to find the most suitable place for it in the apartment.

This succulent grows very well on a southern window sill, but you must protect it from direct sunlight.

Temperature regime

For it to grow and develop normally, it needs to have a difference between the night and day temperatures. During the growing season, the plant feels best at 18 to 25 degrees Celsius. During the warm season the flower can be placed on a terrace or balcony or in the garden in the lacy shade of a tree. In winter the flower buds are deposited, but you'll need a cool place (12 to 14 degrees) for the flower to bloom.

The shrub blooms in April or May.

Air Humidity

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Hathiore reacts negatively to stagnant air, so the room where it grows should be ventilated systematically. On hot days, remember to moisten the flower with a sprayer, in some cases twice a day. If the humidity in the room is too low, this will cause the shoots to become wrinkled and lose their turgor.

Trimming

To keep the plant looking neat and pretty, it should be pruned every spring.

To do this, gently "twist" any unwanted segments off the shoots with your fingers.

Pouring

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Pouring is done as soon as the surface of the soil mixture in the container with the flower has dried out. Use well drained or filtered water that is close to room temperature. During the dormancy period, water more sparingly (about once every 20 days). When the plant is watered and half an hour has passed, empty the tray of excess water.

If the substrate becomes stagnant or cold water is used, the chance of root rot will increase.

Fertilizer

Fertilize the Hathiora during the growing season and also during flowering. A mineral fertilizer with no calcium at all and little nitrogen will do. Micronutrients in the fertilizer should be in the following ratio: phosphorus - 18, nitrogen - 9, potassium - 24. Feed the flower once every 2 weeks.

During the dormancy period, the plant does not need to be fertilized.

Potting the Hatiora

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Young shrub should be transplanted systematically once a year, older specimens once every 2 years, and large shrubs once every 5 years. Replanting is carried out in spring, when flowering is over. For this procedure, take a soil mixture consisting of coarse sand, peat, leaf and turf soil (1:1:2:1). A small amount of charcoal is added to the ready substrate.

Also note that the soil mixture should be slightly acidic or neutral. To transplant such a succulent use a low pot, on the bottom of which necessarily make a layer of drainage. Fill it with a thin layer of soil mixture and transplant the bush from the old container into it. All voids in the pot should be filled with fresh soil mixture, then compact its surface a little and water the plant.

Hathiora transplanting, and awakening the dormant buds WITHOUT cutting.

//Valentina Zemskova

Propagation methods

Sprouting

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

The house chathiora can be propagated very easily and quickly with cuttings. Any segment that breaks off the stem can be used as a cuttings, and it can give roots right there in the pot next to the parent shrub. In order to propagate the flower in this way, when it blossoms, 3 or 4 segments are carefully twisted off the shoot. The resulting cuttings should treat the wound with crushed charcoal and let it dry outdoors for 3-5 days. Then the lower part of the cuttings is sprinkled with Kornevin and planted for rooting in moistened soil mixture.

Water the cuttings only when the soil mixture is completely dry, and moisten it through the tray (bottom watering). If cared for properly, the young plant will bloom the very next year.

Grafting

The spiky pereskia is used to graft the Hatiora. This procedure is done in the summertime. Cut off the branched part of the scion and then split the stem.

The cuttings of the scion used as scion should have 2 or 3 segments. Its lower part should be sharpened with a wedge, then it should be placed in the cleft of the scion stem and the graft should be secured with a plaster. The bandage can be removed only when the scion begins to grow. If the temperature is 18-20 degrees where the bush will be, the scion can take root after 15-20 days. Those stems that grow below the place of grafting should be cut off.

Such bushes propagated by grafting flower very profusely.

Diseases and Pests of Hatiora

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Pests

Pests such as: scutes, mealybugs and spider mites can settle on Hatiora. All such pests are suckers, that is they bite the leaves or shoots and suck the plant juice out of them. To get rid of such pests, the bush will need to be sprayed three times with a solution of acaricide, for example, Acarin, Fitoverm or Agravertin. However, before spraying, the top layer of soil mixture in the container with the flower should be replaced with a fresh one.

Diseases

If the tank becomes stagnant regularly, it can cause rot. This will cause the stem to become soft and brown. If you notice signs of rot, you will have to get rid of the bush, as it is impossible to save it. However, if you wish, you can root the unaffected part of the shoot.

This plant is also susceptible to phytophthorosis.

The affected shoots will discolor, turn gray, wither, and rot. To save the bush, it must be sprayed with Oxyhom, but the treatment must be done in a timely manner.

Why does the chathiora not bloom

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Sometimes the plant either does not bloom at all or blooms very sparingly. This can be for various reasons, two of them: the pot is too small or the shrub was taken care of incorrectly during the dormancy period and no flower buds were formed. Remember the shrub has to be kept at a temperature of 10 to 16 degrees over the winter and not allowed to fertilize or water sparingly.

Why does the plant turn yellow? Once the cause of this problem has been found, try to remove it as soon as possible, then you will have a chance to save the Hathiora.

Chathiora species with photos and names

The following species are the most common in the home.

Chathiora salicornioides (Hatiora salicornioides)

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

Hathiora salicornioides, or salicorniform or saltwort. This is a type species of the genus. This strongly branching plant looks like a small tree, about 0.

4 m high. This species differs from the others by the fact that its shoots are thin round in cross section, and they include segments of a keg-like shape (for this reason the British call such a chatyora still "a drunkard's dream"). In springtime small apical flowers appear on the bush in red, pink or yellow. They are bell-shaped.

Hatiora rosea (Hatiora rosea)

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

This species has flat reddish-green shoots that are club-shaped or elliptical in shape, unlike the saltwort.

The pinkish, large flowers vary in size from 30 to 40mm across.

Hatiora herminiae5>

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

This plant has arch-shaped or straight shoots that reach about 0.3m in length. They consist of dark green segments cylindrical in cross-section, 20-50 mm long, reaching 5 mm across. The flowers are crimson.

Hatiora gaertneri (Hatiora gaertneri)

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

The shoots consist of segments that are about 70 mm long, with small notches along the edge. The charlar-red, funnel-shaped flowers reach about 50 mm across.

Hatiora graeseri (Hatiora graeseri)

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

This hybrid was created by crossing Hatiora gartneri and Hatiora pink. The flowers have petals colored in burgundy-red hues. During reclamation, however, other shades began to appear.

Hatiora pentaptera (Hatiora pentaptera)

Hatiora: home care, replanting and propagation, species

The plant looks like a small shrub. Its shoots are pentahedral and its flowers are small and white.

Promises associated with chathiora

Since chathiora has a not quite ordinary appearance, it has received a large number of nicknames among the people, such as: man's tears, dancing bones, drunkard's dream, etc. Some flower growers are afraid to grow such a spectacular flower in their home, because there are rumors about it that it is able to expel any man from the house. To believe in it or not - a personal matter of each person.

But at least this has not been scientifically proven.

Hatiora cactus "Dancing Bones"

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