The herbaceous perennial strawberry (Fragaria) is a member of the pink family. This genus unites such species that are found only in wild nature - plain, eastern and meadow strawberries; cultivated (not growing in natural conditions) - garden strawberry and pineapple strawberry; and also those species that can be met in nature and in culture - nutmeg strawberry and forest strawberry. The name strawberry comes from the word "strawberry", which means a berry growing very close to the ground. The first person to describe such a crop was J. Bock, who was caretaker of the botanical garden in Zweibrücken, and this happened in 1553.
There is an opinion that the emergence of this plant occurred in the Tertiary period in Eastern Asia, after that there was a spread of strawberries across Eurasia and America. The following will describe one species of strawberry, namely the large-fruited strawberry, either garden strawberry or pineapple strawberry. This species was the result of a cross between the Virginia strawberry and the Chilean strawberry. Today, this species has more than 10,000 different varieties.
Peculiarities of garden strawberries
The strawberry has a well-developed, branched root system.
The large ternate leaf laminae are green in color, and are arranged on petioles that reach about 25 centimeters in length. The above-ground part of the bush has 3 kinds of shoots:
- Roots. These are annual shortened shoots with an apical bud called a heart. Horns also have axillary lateral buds and a rosette that consists of several leaf plates.
They are annual stalked stems that are organs of vegetative reproduction. Their appearance is observed at the time when the flowering bushes are finished.
- Flower peduncles. They emerge in April from generative buds.
Five-petaled, white flowers are gathered into shield-shaped, multifloral inflorescences.
There are some varieties of this crop which have stems lower than the flower stalks. The fruit of such a plant, which everyone calls a berry, is in fact a sprawling flower-pod. On its surface, it has small pale brown nuts, which are the real fruits of the plant. The berries may be colored in various shades of red. There are varieties with pink or white berries and light red or white colored flesh.
It is recommended to cultivate strawberries in the same place for not more than 4-5 years without replanting. Only black currant berries contain more vitamin C than strawberries. At the same time, the amount of folic acid in the berries of this plant is much higher than that of the raspberries or grapes. And compared to pineapples or apples, strawberries have 4 times more iron.
Strawberries are garden remontant, seedless.
One of the best varieties!
Planting strawberries in the open ground
When to plant
Potting strawberries in the open ground can be done throughout the growing season. However, experienced gardeners advise it to be done at the beginning of the fall or spring period, or in the last weeks of summer. If you plant strawberries in the last days of August or first days of September, the bushes will have time to root very well before the first frosts and the next season will begin to bear fruit. In regions with very cold and snowy winters, it is recommended to plant this crop in the spring, as soon as the ground warms up.
A site suitable for this plant should be well consecrated.
Do not plant strawberries in areas where cabbage, potatoes or cucumbers used to grow. Also for the cultivation of this culture are not suitable sites where last year was growing peppers, tomatoes, eggplants and other Solanaceae. It is not recommended to plant strawberries next to raspberries.
Soil for strawberries
Prilot for planting strawberries is suitable for practically any kind of soil. With proper care, this plant can grow on any soil, but excessively dry sandy soil and swampy area are not suitable for this crop.
The best strawberries will grow on slightly acidic sandy loam or loamy soil, and it must be fertile, moist and air-permeable. For planting, do not choose areas where there is stagnant meltwater or rainwater. It is also recommended that groundwater should be deeper than 0.7-0.8 m.
Soil acidity should be 4,5-5,5. Experienced gardeners recommend choosing for planting strawberries those plots, where previously legumes, onions, garlic, marigold, lupine, oats, rye, peas, beets, carrots, radishes, radish, parsley and dill were grown. But if cucumbers, crucifers or solanaceous plants were growing on the plot, it is not suitable for planting this crop.
Planning a garden strawberry
Planning a strawberry in spring
If the plan is to plant the strawberry in spring, the plot should be prepared in the autumn time. For this purpose, the area must be tilled with a pitchfork to a depth of 0.
25-0.3 m, all weeds must be removed from the ground and 5 kg of peat, compost or decomposed manure per 1 square meter must be put in. Also in the ground should be made full mineral fertilizer, so, 1 square meter plot takes 20 grams of sulfate potassium, 40 grams of double superphosphate and 5 kg of wood ash. If the planting of strawberries is planned in the spring, then apply organic fertilizers to the soil in the fall, and minerals - in the spring. In case the soil on the plot is rich in nutrients, the application of fertilizers is not necessary.
Transplantation of small-fruited varieties is carried out on the scheme of 20x30 centimeters. If large-fruited varieties are planted, the distance between bushes in a row should be 0.2 to 0.3 m, but 0.7 to 0.
8 m should be left between the rows. Use a hoe to make holes, with their depth should be 0.25 to 0.3 m, and the width - about 0.2 m.
In each ready hole should be poured 1 liter of water, and without waiting until it soaks in, place a bush in it. Then the hole is filled with soil, which is slightly compacted. The root neck of the bush should be at the same level as the plot, but you must make sure that the core was not buried in the ground, otherwise the strawberry will rot and start to wither. In case the plant is buried to a shallow depth, it can lead to its death due to the drying up of the root system. When the strawberry is planted, loosen the soil surface well between the rows.
If the plant is planted in dry soil, it will need 2 or 3 more waterings before it will fully take root. Water daily in the evening. In addition, the first days after planting the bushes will need protection from direct sunlight.
Potting strawberries in autumn
If you decide to plant in autumn, you should prepare the area for this crop 15-20 days before planting. The site is prepared in the same way as in the spring, the only difference is that both mineral and organic fertilizers are put into the soil immediately.
Experienced gardeners in this case, recommend taking a half dose of mineral fertilizers. Planting bushes is made in the same way as in the spring. When strawberries get accustomed to the new place, the soil surface between the rows should be covered with decomposed straw or manure, and the thickness of the layer can vary from 8 to 10 centimeters. In this case the strawberry root system will be protected from winter frosts.
To grow strawberries in open soil, they should be timely weeded, loosened soil surface between rows, dipped, watered, fertilized, pruned, treated for prevention or treatment of various diseases and pests, and the site should be prepared for the coming winter.
In some cases, strawberries planted last year are pushed out of the ground in the winter time by severe frosts, so in the spring time it will be necessary to cover the roots with soil, which should be trampled a little, and it should be done at the first opportunity. After that, it is recommended to loosen the soil surface between the rows and near the bushes. Remove weeds as soon as they appear, and if a crust has formed on the surface of the soil, it should be loosened. Throughout the vegetation period, loosen the soil surface between the rows about 7 or 8 times, and around the bushes at least 5 times. To make the care of this garden crop much easier, the surface of the plot should be covered with a layer of mulch (fallen leaves from trees, decomposed straw, bulrush or peat).
Thanks to the mulch there is no crust on the soil, and the number of weeds is noticeably reduced. If the plant is growing in the same place for more than 5 years, the experts recommend replanting it on a new site.
Weddings during flowering
The plant blossoms 7-15 days after the flower arrow appears or 3,5-4 weeks after the beginning of the growing season. Only one inflorescence grows from a single heart, with 5-27 flowers in each shield. Each flower may blossom for 4 to 6 days, but the whole bed may last up to 20 days, depending directly on humidity, day-length, type of plant, temperature, light intensity and nutrient availability.
It does not need any special care during flowering. Such a plant bears fruit 4 weeks after flowering time.
The strawberries must be watered in time and correctly because they are moisture loving plants. It is best watered by artificial sprinkling. Some gardeners also make rather deep (about 12 centimeters) furrows in the center of the row spacing.
Then in these furrows you need to pour water. When the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the furrows should be filled, and the surface of the plot should be loosened. If watering is done from a watering can, the sprinkler should be removed, and then you need to carefully pour the water directly under the roots of the plants, while trying to ensure that the liquid is not on the surface of the leaves. The temperature of the water used for watering and the air temperature should be the same. It has been noticed that if you run the water through a magnet, it will help increase the number and size of fruits.
In order to understand whether such a plant needs to be watered, it is necessary to check the moisture content of the soil at a depth of 0.2-0.3 m. Strawberries should be watered if the soil at this depth will crumble in your hands. During intensive growth, bushes are usually watered once every 1-1.
5 weeks. During the fruit ripening period, watering should be done with a frequency of once every 5 days. During rainfall, the frequency of watering depends entirely on the condition of the soil.
To improve strawberry growth and increase its yield, this plant must be systematically fertilized. Mineral and also organic fertilizers such as wood ash, poultry manure or humus are recommended.
The first time in the season the plant should be fertilized immediately after the melting of the snow cover in the spring, to do this under a young bush poured 1 to 2 liters of a solution of complex mineral fertilizer, and 1 adult bush - take 2 to 5 liters. A solution of poultry manure (1:20) and cowpea (1:6) should be fermented for 7 days. Then 1 bucket of the prepared solution is mixed with ½ tbsp. wood ash. The dosage of this nutrient mixture is exactly the same as for the first feeding.
Another feeding is carried out after the beginning of flowering, and the same nutrient solution is used as for the second feeding, but in its preparation cowpea is diluted in the proportion 1:8.
In the second half of August in strawberries observed the setting of flower buds for the next year. During this period, fertilize the plant with nitrogen can not, otherwise the bushes can start to grow. For 1 bucket of water, take 50 grams of daily extraction of superphosphate, and then pour ½ tbsp of wood ash into the mixture. Remember that all nutrient solutions must never contain chlorine, because the plant reacts extremely negatively to it.
Before feeding strawberries, it is necessary to water the plot, and the cores and leaves must remain dry. Replanted strawberries need to be fed more often because when the first crop begins to sing, at the same time the development of the flower buds of the future crop is observed.
When to transplant
Transplanting strawberry bushes is recommended at least once every 4-5 years. If remontant strawberries are grown, they should be transplanted once every 2 years. Replanting is recommended in the fall, more specifically, in September.
When transplanting, the procedure should be exactly the same as for the initial planting. The bushes should be placed in the prepared wells, which are filled with soil, while making sure that the cores are elevated above the surface of the plot. The soil surface between the rows before frosts should be covered with a layer of mulch, which will protect the root system of the plant from frost.
After all fruits are harvested, strawberries begin active growth of leaves and whiskers. This is also the time for the accumulation of nutrients necessary for the plant during the winter and for the formation of new fruit buds.
Note that during this period it will be necessary to ensure that the bushes have enough moisture as well as nutrients.
Secrets of strawberry growing.
Most strawberry cultivars use mustaches, also called rosettes, for propagation. Beardless varieties are propagated by seeds and bush division.
Propagation of strawberries by mustache
After the bushes stop fruiting, they have a growing mustache.
During this period, the plants should be weeded, watered, and the soil around the bushes should be loosened. Select two one- or two-year-old rosettes, which should be absolutely healthy and located as close to the parent plant as possible. They should be slightly pressed into the ground and then covered with loose soil, making sure the heart is not covered. Wait for the whiskers to give roots. In September, you need to remove the rooted mustache from the ground and plant it in a new permanent place.
Some gardeners separate the whiskers and plant them on the breeding beds for re-growing. In this case, it is necessary to make a canopy of lutrasil over the bed, which will protect the plants from the scorching rays of the sun. Also note that those mustaches that have roots should have 3 or 4 leaf plates, and those rosettes without roots should have only 2 leaves; in this case almost all the strength of the plant will be used to build up the root system. The canopy should be removed half a month after planting the mustache on the bed. In September, the well-rooted moustaches should be planted in a permanent place, taking them together with the root ball.
When buying seedlings, remember that a good rosette should have a well developed horn, long (at least 50 mm) roots, and at least three leaf plates.
Propagation of strawberries (garden strawberries) by whiskers - 7 dachi
Seed propagation of strawberries
Seeds are used for propagation of the small and large-fruited remontant varieties. Sow in March and use compacted, moist compost. Seeds are not deepened, and only slightly pressed into the surface. The seeds should be covered with cling film or glass from above, and placed in a refrigerator drawer for vegetables, where they should stay for three days.
Then the seeds are removed to a warm (18 to 20 degrees) place. The soil should be systematically moistened with a sprayer. After about 4 weeks the first shoots should appear. After that, the cover with a container removed, and she herself is moved to a well-lit cool (14-16 degrees) place. After 7 days the seedlings are removed again to a warm place with a temperature of 18 to 20 degrees.
During the formation of the plants of the third or fourth true leaf, make their picking in individual peat-transport pots. They are planted outdoors from mid- to late May, when the return frosts are behind them. Before planting, however, the seedlings will need to be hardened.
Propagation of strawberries by bush division
Propagation of seedless strawberry varieties is still done by bush division (particulation). This procedure is done in the springtime or when the fruiting is finished.
Dig up well-developed, powerful bushes, free their root system from the soil. Then divide the bush into several parts with a sharp knife, and note that each part should have a horn, at least 3 leaf plates and healthy white roots. Darkened old roots should be pruned. Then the seedlings are planted permanently.
I multiply strawberries by bush division.
What time do you prune them
There are various opinions on whether strawberries need pruning. Some of them are convinced that the crop does not need pruning, others are convinced of the opposite. Remember that the foliage nourishes the plant and that the more foliage the more powerful the bush. However, once the fruiting period is over, the strawberry begins to prepare for fruit growth in the next season, and actively growing rosettes weaken the plant itself by taking away its strength and nutrients, which are so necessary for the bush to form fruit cells next season. As a result, we can conclude that it is necessary to prune this crop.
However, it should be remembered that the leaf plates are heat insulators, and it is thanks to them the bushes do not freeze in winter. Therefore, if you remove all the leaves from the plants, they will die in winter.
Zemlyanika is a perennial. It has a gradual withering of leaf plates, with new leaves replacing them. The cycle of old leaves replacing the new ones lasts about 60 days.
Pruning the leaf plates is made immediately after the main part of fruits will be collected, this time is usually in August. In this case, the bushes will be able to grow new leaves before the first frosts. If pruning is not done in due time, it is better to postpone this procedure to the next year.
How to prune strawberries
Cut the leaves at the very surface of the soil. This prevents pathogens and pests from settling in their remnants.
The cut off rosettes and leaves can be used to fill the compost pit. However, if there are pests or signs of disease on them, it is better to destroy such plant waste.
If the bushes are properly cared for and absolutely healthy, they will not need frequent pruning. In this case, it is recommended that this procedure be carried out once every 2 or 3 years. Also note that pruning young plants can only do harm as it weakens them greatly.
When the shrubs are pruned, they will need a preventive treatment with fungicides and insecticides. When young leaves begin to grow actively, strawberries will need timely watering, weeding, feeding with organics and mineral fertilizers, and loosening the surface of the plot.
Strawberries in autumn
In regions with cold winters in late autumn before the first frosts, the strawberry patch should be covered with a continuous layer of mulch (decayed leaves or straw manure) with a thickness of 5 to 7 centimeters. In that case the bushes will not freeze out even if the winter period is very cold and with little snow.
In southern regions the culture is protected in the following way: In spring time sow sorghum bushes every 4 or 5 rows from east to west.
In this case, strawberries will not suffer from the scorching rays of the sun in summer, and in winter such bushes will contribute to the delay of snow, which will protect plants from freezing and also contribute to the accumulation of water in the soil.
Preparing strawberries for wintering. Strawberries overwinter perfectly Website "Garden World"
Pests and diseases of strawberries with photos
Diseases of strawberries with photos
Garden strawberries have low resistance to a variety of diseases. However, it should be considered that this crop and strawberries are susceptible to the same diseases. Those that occur most frequently will be described below.
It promotes damage to both the roots and the ground parts of strawberries. Affected bushes eventually become discolored, wilted and withered. Development of ovaries stops, rosettes and leaf plates become dark. This fungal disease most often develops in heat. Its causative agents can be found in weeds, some vegetable crops, as well as in the soil, and this fungus may not die for several years, especially if the site will not be removed from the remains of plants.
In order to prevent it, you should strictly follow the rules of crop rotation and pay special attention to the predecessors. At the first signs of the disease, plants should be sprayed with Benorad or Fundazole.
If this disease is not controlled, after only 2 or 3 years approximately ½ of the strawberry bushes will die. This fungal disease affects the vascular system, whiskers, root neck and root system of the plant. The infected plant first "settles," and after a while there is a lodging of its leaves, with leaf plates forming in the central part of the bush as if affected by chlorosis.
On a cut of the rhizome, a ring of brown-colored vessels is clearly distinguishable. Often it becomes clear that the plant is diseased, in the period of ovary formation. The causative agents of such a disease are usually carried along with the soil, but various vegetable crops and weeds can also become their carriers. In order to prevent it, crop rotation rules should be followed. Affected bushes should be treated with Benorad or Fundazole, using a drip irrigation system.
A bush affected by Phytophthora becomes red on the main root cylinder. The appearance of the disease is observed at the beginning of the summer dry season and the plants begin to wilt. At the same time, the lower leaf plates are the first to wither. Also reddening of the axial root cylinder and gradual death of lateral roots can be observed. In large roots, the lower part becomes dark, and they take on an appearance similar to the tail of a rat.
Leaflets develop a red-blue hue, and premature wilting is observed. The young leaflets become shallow. The pathogen is in the soil, and it is from there that it can enter the strawberry root system. Then the fungus mycelium begins to grow in the root wood, with its overgrowth leading to its filling the conductive tissue. In some cases, the pathogens enter the soil with the planting material.
To prevent this, you should follow the rules of crop rotation and carefully choose planting material. Prophylactic treatment of the site with Trichoderma is also recommended, using a drip irrigation system. Diseased bushes and the ground near them should be sprayed with Quadris or Ridomil.
Phytophthora rot damages the fruit and may cause 15% to 20% yield loss. In some cases, the entire crop is destroyed.
This rot affects all parts of the plant above the soil surface, such as inflorescences, foliage, buds, berries, top of shoots, and growing points. Fruits on affected plants acquire a bitter taste, and brownish stiff spots appear on green berries. Over time, berries wither and mummify. Dense white coating appears on the affected parts of the plant during rainy weather. Shoots become rough and die off.
As a rule, the first manifestations of the disease are observed in June, and in July it reaches its maximum development. To prevent this, follow the rules of crop rotation, plant only healthy seedlings, properly care for bushes. Spray diseased plants and the soil beneath them with Ridomil, Quadris or Metaxil.
The causative agents of Botrytis (grey rot) are everywhere. This disease prefers very warm and humid weather.
The bushes that have not been replanted for many years, as well as dense plantings with poor ventilation, are the first to be affected. If conditions are favorable for Botrytis development, it can kill 1/2 of the fruits. Leaf blades, fruits, ovaries, buds, flowers, and stalks are all affected by the disease. Soft brown spots appear on their surface and become larger over time. Drying and mummification of fruits can be observed.
Soggy spots appear on the surface of the ovaries and stalks. The plant begins to rot. In spring, prophylactic treatment with Derozal, Switch, Topsin M or Euparene is done. When the plant blooms, you should spray it again, but only if the summer is damp. Infested specimens should be dug up and destroyed.
In a plant affected by powdery mildew (belle), a plaque first appears on the underside of the leaves. This disease affects not only the leaves, but also the rosettes, petioles, and fruits. A loose, white-colored plaque appears on the surface of the affected parts of the plant. Over time, brown necroses or "tans" form on the underside of the leaves in these areas. The whiskers curl and the foliage takes on a chlorotic appearance.
Fruits grow underdeveloped, ugly and not juicy, and they have a fungal odor and flavor. Affected shrubs should be sprayed with Fundazole, Switch or Baylethon.
Strawberries can also be affected by white, brown or brown spots, black, white or root rot, anthracnose.
What DOES DEAL FROM STONES? Fusariosis, Vertyllosis wilt and others
There are quite a few pests that can harm strawberries. Only the most common ones will be described below.
The Raspberry Weevil
The Raspberry Weevil is a small beetle, reaching only 0.3 cm in length, that has an almost black coloration. In winter time it hides in clumps of ground or under a layer of foliage. It wakes up in spring and begins to eat strawberry leaves. As a result, holes appear on the leaf plates.
Females produce eggs in the buds. Thus 1 specimen in a season may lay 50-100 eggs, and the larvae that hatch damage buds, as a result of which the grower may lose his/her crop.
The Nettle Leaf Weevil
The Nettle Leaf Weevil is a rich-green color and about 1.2 cm long. This pest shapes the edge of the leaf laminae.
From the middle to the end of summer, the larvae of this pest damage the root system of bushes.
To get rid of such pests, spray bushes with Decis, Confidor, Karbofos or Spark no later than 7 days before the plant flowers, or immediately after harvesting. To prevent this, burn plant debris and loosen the soil surface between rows.
The strawberry mite settles on the leaf plates of strawberries, causing them to shrivel and their surface to look oily. The fruits become shallow.
If the infestation is severe, it can cause the death of the plant. The maximum increase in the number of such pests is observed in August. During the season, they can give 4 or 5 generations. As a preventive measure, before planting seedlings, they should be kept in warm water for a quarter of an hour (about 45 degrees). Then the plants are washed in cool water and allowed to dry in a shady place.
Infested bushes at the beginning of the spring period should be sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur (60 grams of the substance for 1 bucket of water), with about two liters of mixture per 1 square meter of area. The second time you spray the plants 1.5 weeks before they start blooming, and use a solution of Neoron (10 mg per bucket of water), 1 liter of mixture per 10 square meters. If the mite lives on each bush, after harvesting, cut or mow all the leaves and destroy them, then the area should be abundantly watered and mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil. After that the surface of the plot must be treated with Carbophos solution (60 grams per 1 bucket of water).
Stem and strawberry nematodes
Stem and stem nematodes are also rather dangerous for strawberries. The stem nematode is a tiny (0.1 cm long) transparent worm that settles in petioles, shoots and leaf veins, causing them to swell. Shortening and distortion of diseased parts of the plant, its wrinkling and cracking are observed, it starts to lag behind in growth and gradually dies. The strawberry nematode settles in the leaf axils and buds of the plant.
Affected bushes show thickening, shortening and bending of leaf petioles and flower stalks. Fruits do not appear on such bushes at all or look ugly. Calendula nematodes do not tolerate the smell, so it is recommended to sow these flowers in strawberry beds. Infested bushes are dug up and destroyed. For prevention, purchased seedlings should be thoroughly washed with water, removing all soil.
Then soak them in brine for a quarter of an hour (10 spoons per bucket of water). Then the seedlings are rinsed and placed in the soil.
Slugs and snails, red ants, millipedes, cicadas, etc. can also infest strawberry bushes.
Pests on strawberries #urozhainye_gryadki
Treatment of strawberries
To protect plants from various diseases and pests, systematic preventive treatments are sufficient.
The plants should be sprayed at the beginning of the spring period and in the fall. Before the spring treatment, the area should be cleaned of last year's mulch, and it is also necessary to remove and destroy all old leaves. For treatment, use products that contain copper, such as Bordeaux liquid, XOM or Horus. The second time you spray the plants as a preventive measure before they bloom, then during intensive leaf growth, then 1 or 2 times at an interval of half a month at the end of flowering. To destroy pests, strawberries are treated with Quadris, Topsin M, Fondazol or other fungicide of similar action.
For preventive purposes against pests, the plant is sprayed with Envidor, Aktellik, Calypso or preparations similar in action. Frequency of prophylactic treatments is greatly influenced by the infectious background of the site. The lower the background, the less spraying is necessary and vice versa.
Single strawberry treatment.
Strawberry varieties with photos and description
Before purchasing strawberry seedlings or seedlings you must find out which variety is most suitable for you.
Although there are many varieties, there is no perfect one. For example, one well-known breeder believes that only a variety that includes 56 traits is ideal, with each one suitable for any gardener. To date, work is being done in this direction.
All garden strawberry varieties are divided into early, medium-ripening, late and remontant. If you want to be able to eat fresh berries for almost the entire season, planting 5 different varieties differing in maturity will be sufficient.
- Kokinska early. An early-ripening variety with high yields and frost tolerance. The shape of the large glossy fruits is conical and their color is dark red. The juicy, dense flesh is very tasty.
- Festival Chamomile.
This Ukrainian variety has a high yield. The rich red large fruits have a rounded-conical shape. The sweet flesh is dense fragrant and very tasty.
- Elvira. This variety from Holland is resistant to fungal diseases.
The large, glossy red fruits are rounded and weigh up to 60 grams. The red dense flesh is fragrant and very sweet.
- Kent. This variety from Canada is resistant to frost, grey rot, powdery mildew and root disease. The rich red round-conical fruits have fragrant dense sweet flesh.
It bears fruit again in August or September.
- Heneoye. This super-early variety from America is frost and disease resistant as well as high yielding. It is designed for non-black-soil regions. The fruits are juicy large sweet and fragrant of medium firmness.
Also popular among gardeners are such varieties as: Vima Zanta, Deroyale, Camarosa, Lambada, Kimberly, Clery, Honey, Alba, Anita, Early Crimea, Calistemon, etc.
- Lord. This English self-pollinating variety has high yields and resistance to frost and grey rot. The ripening and berry ripening period is extended. The rich red rounded-conical fruits have dense, fragrant, sweet flesh.
- Yielding. This large-fruited variety has high yields and resistance to frost and fungal diseases. The fruits are very tasty and beautiful and are not observed to become shallow until the very end of the harvest.
- Venta. This Baltic variety is a super elite variety.
It is high yielding and winter-hardy, as well as resistant to mites. The large, beautiful, rounded fruits have a deep red color, which changes to a dark red color in hot weather.
- Huang. This variety is one of the largest-fruited, winter-hardy and high-yielding, and can also adapt quickly to unfavorable conditions. Some fruits can reach the size of an average apple.
Glossy rich red fruits have a rounded shape. The reddish dense flesh is very sweet.
- Cambridge Favorite. This variety from England is characterized by its resistance to fungal diseases and its productivity. The glossy, deep red, large fruits have an even, regular, rounded-conical shape.
The dense reddish flesh is tasty, sweet-sour.
In addition to these varieties, gardeners grow such varieties as Junia Smades, Holiday, Mashenka, Gigantella, Festival, Fireworks, Pearless, Corona, Polka, Tago, Suzy, Figaro, Anapolis, Marshall, Darselect, Elsanta, Sultan, Turida, etc.
- Боровицкая. This self-fertile variety is frost and disease resistant and high yielding. The twin dark red fruits are very large and have a groove in the middle.
The taste of the juicy, dense flesh is dessert-like.
- Wim Tarda. A large-fruited variety from Holland with high yields and resistance to disease and frost. The glossy, very large fruits are bluntly pointed. The dark red flesh is very tasty.
There is no shrinkage of the fruit until the last harvest.
- Red Gauntlet. A medium-late English variety with high yields and resistance to disease and frost. The large, dark red, glossy fruits are broadly conical in shape. The dense rich pink flesh is very fragrant and sweet.
- Vicoda. This Dutch variety is among the best winter-hardy varieties of this group. It is resistant to spot disease and white mold. Its dark red, dense, comb-shaped fruits weigh up to 120 grams and are highly palatable. This Dutch variety appeared relatively recently, forms a small number of whiskers.
The dark red large fruits are very sweet and beautiful. The dense dark red flesh is very dense. The variety is high yielding and disease resistant.
Horticulturists also cultivate such varieties as Boheme, Maxim, Symphony, Mize Schindler, Mara de Bois, Chandler, Chamora Turusi, Maestro, Princess Diana, Carnival, Proffuge and varieties with white fruits Pineberry and Anablanca.
Remontant strawberry varieties, or neutral day varieties
The American variety is resistant to fungal diseases and frost. It blooms and bears fruit regardless of the length of daylight hours. It bears fruit continuously for about 10 months. The large red fruits are as if covered in varnish. The taste is sweet and sour.
- Crimean remontant. It is one of the best remontant varieties. Resistant to diseases and frosts. Fruits from the last days of May until frosts. Fruits remain large until the last gathering.
When the berry is fully ripe, it has the aroma of wild strawberries. The dark red dense fruits are juicy and beautiful.
- Queen Elizabeth the Second. This variety is considered the best of the remontant ones. Its large dense fruits are very fragrant.
The variety is very popular among gardeners.
- Girlyanda. A recent Russian variety. It blossoms and bears fruit continuously, and is not affected by daylight or weather. The dense large fruits are fragrant and tasty.
Often grown in hanging cachepots or on a trellis.
- Ananas. The Polish variety is disease resistant. The first fruiting is observed in the middle of May and the second in the last days of October. The shape of the orange fruits is cubariform and they weigh about 60 grams.
They smell and taste like wild strawberries.
Also the best remontant varieties are: Consul, Felicia, Aisha, Albion, Thelma, Florin, Evie Delight, Sweet Evie, Royal Visit, Autumn Fun, Selva, etc...