From all members of the Asparagus family, Chlorophytum is the most popular in room culture. This perennial herbaceous plant has a large number of species and is heat-loving. The orange chlorophytum (Chlorophytum amaniense) is among the many species, and it is also called orchidastrum. It is not as commonly cultivated as its cousins, but it is still a highly decorative plant and makes the room air much cleaner too.
Peculiarities of orange chlorophytums
The most popular flower grower is the crested chlorophytum, which has long, narrow leaf plates.
The orange chlorophytum, however, has distinct external differences. The shape of its broad leaves is lanceolate, with the plates tapered to the base. They form a dense leaf rosette that can reach about 0.4 m in height. The leaf blades are a beautiful emerald color, but the most striking aspect is the orange-pink petioles.
It is because of these bright petioles and the species got its name. It is also called an orchid star or winged plant.
When the shrub blooms, not very long flower stalks form in the axils of its leaves. The buds are spirally placed on them. The opened flowers have a faintly pleasant fragrance.
During the formation of the seeds the flower stalk becomes similar to a corncob.
There are several varieties of orange chlorophytum. Some of them differ from the main species in the fact that not only the petiole but also the middle vein is orange.
Home plants. Chlorophytum orange.
Care and maintenance.
Chlorophytum orange is excellent in room conditions. It is easy to care for and has a very gentle nature.
This plant needs quite a lot of bright light but you should avoid hitting it in the full sun. A window sill in a western or eastern orientation is great for it.
Although the shrub will not be killed by a little shade, the color of its petioles and leaves may become faded. If the flower is on a southern window sill it will need shade from the midday sun. In order for the shrub not to lose its decorative appearance, its leaves should be exposed to direct sunlight for no more than 2-3 hours a day. In winter it also needs plenty of light and may require extra light.
This type of chlorophytum feels great when it's warm.
The temperature should be close to room temperature, with an optimal value of 25-27 degrees. In summer the bush is not afraid of the heat as well. In the spring and summer months, when it is warm outside, the bush can be moved to fresh air (in the garden or on the balcony). Thanks to a constant supply of fresh air, the bush will begin to grow and develop much faster. However, for him choose a place that will be protected from precipitation and gusts of strong wind.
Watch the air temperature while the bush is outside. It should not be below 11 degrees. If it gets colder, bring the yellow chlorophytum inside in a timely manner.
In winter, the shrub may not be moved to a cool place. However, it should still be kept away from working heating appliances.
How to water
For this perennial to develop within limits, it must be watered systematically. Its root system is quite well developed, and it is able to make stores of moisture that are spent during droughts. But these reserves are small, so you still should not forget about watering.
With the onset of the spring period and until the first autumn days, watering should be carried out approximately once every 2 days. The substrate should only be watered after its surface has dried.
In the cold season, water the chlorophytum orange should be less. The fact is that during this period the bush's moisture consumption decreases, and if it is watered abundantly, this can cause rot on the root system.
The plant prefers high humidity, so its leaves are recommended to moisten regularly with a sprayer. On hot summer days, the bush should be systematically sprayed. Chlorophytum also responds well to a warm shower, which should be done about twice every 7 days.
It will wash away the dirt and dust from the surface of the foliage. Instead, you can also clean the leaf plates with a pre-moistened soft sponge or cloth.
To increase the moisture level, it is not uncommon to also use this method: an open vessel filled with water is placed near the pot. Also, the pot with the flower can be placed on a high tray previously filled with moistened sphagnum.
Free, neutral soil rich in nutrients is recommended for planting and transplanting.
Such a chlorophytum is undemanding of the substrate. In this regard, it is quite suitable for it universal soil mixture for indoor crops or it can be made by hand. To prepare the substrate must combine humus, leaf soil, sand and turf (1:2: 1:2). Make sure to disinfect the resulting substrate with whatever method is convenient for you (heating in the oven, using potassium manganese or steaming).
Systematic fertilisation will ensure the proper development of the plant.
And this will result in a thicker, more showy crown. For fertilizers you can use both mineral complexes and organics, the main thing is that they are suitable for ornamental-leaved plants. As a rule, experts recommend using these fertilizers alternately. The optimal frequency of feeding is once every 15 days.
Preliminary fertilizer dissolved in water.
In this case, the fertilizing itself is combined with watering. Experienced flower growers also recommend, regularly making a solution of chalk, starch or activated carbon into the substrate.
Potting orange chlorophytum
If the bush is provided with optimal conditions for growth, the pot becomes small to it rather quickly. That said, while the flower is young, it has the fastest growth rate. This is why it is recommended that this chlorophytum be transplanted annually in the spring and the pot replaced.
After the bush becomes an adult, the frequency of planting can be reduced to once every 3 or 4 years. Often several bushes of chlorophytum are planted in one larger container (often such plants can be found in specialized stores). It must be done before the growing season begins. The new container is chosen taking into account that it should be slightly bulkier than the old one. It is better to choose such a pot, on the bottom of which there are holes for drainage.
At the bottom of the container be sure to make a quality drainage layer, for this you can use pieces of bricks, expanded clay, shells, etc. This layer is covered with a small amount of soil mixture. Carefully remove the bush from the pot together with a lump of soil. To avoid damaging the roots, water the plant in plenty of water about 24 hours before transplanting. Plant the bush in the new pot, using fresh potting soil to eliminate any voids.
The surface of the substrate should be lightly tamped and then water the bush. Specialists recommend putting the plant in a shady place for a few days.
Transplanting chlorophytum | How to transplant chlorophytum without problems - quickly and competently
Since orange chlorophytum consists of leaf rosettes, it does not need formative pruning. However, withered leaf plates must be cut out in a timely manner, and the dried tops must be removed, and the healthy part of the leaf must not be damaged.
When working with the plant, be careful with the leaves.
This is because they are not very flexible and can break off. If you are not going to collect seeds, it is advisable to cut off the flower stems after the bush has flowered. This will help you save your plant's vigor and also avoid unwanted self-sowing.
Growing from seed
The orange chlorophytum is most commonly propagated by seed. And note that the seeds of such a plant have a low germination rate, and to succeed, you have to be extremely careful and follow all the rules described below.
The first spring weeks are best for sowing seeds of this variety of chlorophytum. When about 24 hours remain before sowing, the seeds should be soaked. For this purpose, they are poured with warm water, which is replaced by fresh water once every few hours. For convenience, the seeds can be placed in a cloth.
The box intended for sowing is recommended to be filled with a fertile and light mixture consisting of sand and peat.
The ready made potting soil mixture should be disinfected by all means possible.
Spread the seeds evenly on the surface of the moistened substratum. Just press the seeds into the potting soil a bit and cover the seeds with glass or foil from above. The box is moved to a place where it is always warm (not below 22 degrees). The seeds need plenty of light, but they should always be protected from direct sunlight.
Prepare for the first seedlings to show up in a short time. Sometimes it can take up to six weeks to germinate. During this time, you need to make sure that the substrate is always slightly moist. If necessary, it is moistened with a sprayer, using water that is close to room temperature. Do not forget to air the crops every day, removing the covers for a while.
Be sure to remove condensation that has accumulated on the surface of the film or glass.
After you see sprouts, do not immediately remove the cover. This should be done gradually so that the seedlings can adapt to the new conditions. Once the young bushes formed 2 or 3 true leaf plates, spend their picking in separate pots. This is done with the same soil that is suitable for planting adult plants.
But this method of propagation has two main disadvantages, namely: It is necessary to provide special care to the seeds and seedlings, and the young bush will need time to become a full-fledged plant. The leaf petioles do not turn a beautiful orange color until a few months after the seedlings have sprouted. This only happens when the leaf plates of the orange chlorophytum have grown to a certain size.
Home flowers in November/Orange Chlorophytum/Propagation
This variety differs from the Crested Chlorophytum in that it does not produce a moustache during growth, where it has baby plants. However, it is not uncommon for the shrub to have lateral offshoots in the axils.
For a number of growers, it is advisable to remove these offshoots as they can cause the plant to become overgrown. However, these offshoots can also be used to propagate the chlorophytum. If you find shoots with roots during replanting, these can also be used to produce a young plant. So, separate them carefully from the mother plant and plant them in fresh potting soil.
If you provide your orange chlorophytum with proper care and the right conditions for its normal growth and development, it will delight you not only with its spectacular appearance but also its good health.
As a rule, pests prefer to settle on bushes that have weakened due to regular violations in the rules of care. The following pests can settle on such a spectacular flower: aphids, spider mites, mealybugs and thrips. If there are few insects, you can remove them from the bush with a soap solution treatment. Repeated procedures are carried out at intervals of three to four days, until the pests are completely dead. If there are many pests on the bush, only insecticide treatment will help.
A healthy plant has strong leaf plates with a glossy surface, and their color should be characteristic of the particular variety. Also, the bush should grow and develop within normal limits. If there are any violations in the care, the chlorophytum will "inform" about it, the main thing is to notice the signs of trouble in time and eliminate the cause. If everything is done in time, you can prevent the decrease of ornamental value or the appearance of disease.
The most frequent problems with orange chlorophytum:
- Leaf plates become dark and dry up.
This is usually seen when it is hot outside and the plant lacks moisture. This can be remedied by more frequent watering and systematic watering with a sprayer.
- The tips of the leaf plates dry out. Too much sodium in the substrate or dry air. Try increasing the humidity or changing the fertilizer.
- Leaves turn yellow. This is most often due to nutrient deficiencies or too little light. If the plant is in the shade, move it to a more suitable location. If there is no positive change, then the frequency of feeding should be increased.
- The lower leaf plates become yellow or black.
This is usually due to a regular stagnation of moisture in the roots and due to rotting. Cut off any rotten parts and plant the plant in a new soil mixture that is well permeable. Then try to correct any mistakes in care.
- Brown spots on the leaves. The room is too cold + excessively frequent moistening of the substrate.
- The color of the petioles has become more faded. Very sparse light.
- Lack of flowering in the adult bush and no lateral growth. Move the bush to a brighter location or have it transplanted.
- Winter leaves become faded and fall off.
The room is very hot and the plant lacks light. Keep the shrub away from heaters. A cool, well-lit place is best for it.
The orange chlorophytum, like other varieties of chlorophytum, is excellent for purifying the air in the room. Its broad leaflets intensely absorb carbon dioxide and release phytoncides into the air, which kill pathogens.
Scientists have found that an adult shrub can kill at least 85 percent of pathogenic bacteria that are in the air near a chlorophytum. To enhance the useful properties of this plant, it is recommended to make charcoal in the substrate, which is crushed beforehand.
Chlorophytum Orange (Green Orange). Peculiarities of care, transplanting. Chlorophytum Orange, Winged