Amaryllis: Home Care, Transplanting And Propagation

The flowering perennial Amaryllis is a member of the Amaryllis family. Root leaf plates are elongated and reach about 0.6 m in size. They grow in two rows. When flowering, the shrub produces large umbrella-shaped inflorescences, each containing 6 to 12 flowers.

They can be painted a variety of colors from bright red to white.

Native to South Africa, where it can be found in the forests. It is also native to Australia. This bulbous plant is characterized by an average rate of development, with flowers appearing on the bush before the leaf laminae have grown. If cared for properly, an amaryllis bulb can have a life span of about twenty years.

Amaryllis needs special growing conditions, and it also needs proper care. This perennial can grow from three to five years in one pot.

Cultivation Summary

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

  1. Temperature. During intensive growth, the room should not be hotter than 23 degrees. The optimum temperature during dormancy is around 10 degrees.

  2. Humidity of air. Not above 50 percent.
  3. Lightness. Long daylight hours are required, and light should be bright and diffuse. A south facing windowsill is best.

  4. Pouring. It reacts extremely negatively to stagnant moisture in the roots. It should be watered 1 or 2 times a week. During dormancy, the number of waterings is reduced.
  5. Substrate.

    The soil mixture needs to be nutritious and well-drained. Make a layer of drainage 30 to 40 mm thick at the bottom of the pot.

  6. Fertilizer. Fertilize with liquid mineral fertilizer about once every 30 days. Do this only during the growing season.

  7. Transplanting. It is carried out when the dormancy period is over, and it is done once in 4 or 5 years.
  8. Repropagation. By baby bulbs and by the seed method.
  9. Care features.

    The dormancy period is the last spring and first summer weeks. During the autumn-winter period, the bush feels a severe lack of light, so it is provided with extra light. The bulbs contain poison, so it is necessary to work with them in gloves.

The proper care of amaryllis. My flowers.

My experience.

Home care for amaryllis


Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

Before planting an amaryllis bulb in a vase, you should carefully cut off any rotten parts. Then soak the bulbs for a while in a pinkish manganese solution and then treat the cut areas with charcoal powder. Submerge the bulb into the substrate so that 1/3-1/2 of it was above the surface. If this is not done, then the bulb or flower arrow can die.

For a newly planted bulb, it is recommended to use the lower method of watering (through the tray).

The plant can be planted in the open ground, and the soil chosen for it is saturated with humus. Planted in the garden closer to the summer, the bush will bloom much more lushly and will form a larger number of seedlings compared to amaryllis growing in a pot.

Potting amaryllis bulbs. My flowers.

My experience.


Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

Inexperienced florists often confuse indoor amaryllis with hippeastrum. To avoid confusion, the following features of amaryllis should be remembered:

  • his flowers have petals that are not as wide;
  • does not occur with macro flowers;
  • the maximum number of flowers in a hippeastrum inflorescence is 6, while amaryllis has 6-12;
  • the bulb is 60 mm across at most, with the formation of offspring occurring between its scales;
  • dense flower stems are never hollow.

The flowering shrub usually blooms at the end of August or beginning of September. At this time it produces large, showy flowers, which can be white or various shades of red and pink.

There are also bicolor flowers decorated with stripes. Flowering of the bush is observed in a leafless state and lasts about 2 months. Bulbs older than 15 years no longer form flowers.


Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

This plant reacts negatively to sudden changes in temperature. During the warm season, it does best at temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees, with moderate humidity.

During the resting period, the flower should be kept in a cool place of 8 to 10 degrees.

Air Humidity

If the humidity in the room is normal, the shrub does not need to be moistened with a sprayer. Only do this when the humidity is low and the potting soil dries out very quickly. During the dormancy period, when the plant is resting, it needs a dry period. To prevent the root ball from drying out completely, moisten the substrate slightly with a sprayer once every 3 weeks.


Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

Remember that, regardless of the season, the daily light duration should be at least 16 hours. This is a prerequisite for normal bush development. Since amaryllis blooms during the cold season, the shrub most often lacks light at this time. This can lead to a complete absence of flowering. The flower needs extra light and is most comfortable on a window sill oriented towards the south or south.


After a resting shrub has flower arrows 5-10 cm long, you should increase the frequency and the amount of watering. This is because this is a sure sign of the beginning of the growing season.

To avoid stagnant moisture in the soil mixture, bottom watering (through a tray) is recommended for Amaryllis. If watering is done in a simple way, do not forget to pour out the excess water from the container, otherwise rot may occur on the root system.

Pot selection

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

The pot should be chosen stable and heavy, it should not be wide and reach at least 20 centimeters in height.

As a rule, the bush is building up a voluminous root system and therefore a wide and low container will not allow the leaf plates and later the flower stems to develop properly.

When replanting amaryllis the pot should be replaced with a new one, and it should be only 20-30mm bigger in cross-section than the old one. Remember that Amaryllis flowers much better in a "cramped" pot.


The potting soil suitable for this plant must be fertile. To make the potting soil yourself, combine leafy soil, sod and mulch together with sand (1:1:1:1).

You can buy ready-made universal substrate for bulb plants if you want. Don't forget to make a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot about 30 mm thick, for this purpose expanded clay, pebbles or brick chips will do.


Fertilizer only during active growth. They are given once every 4 weeks, using alternating organic and complex mineral fertilizer. As an organic fertilizer you can take a solution of poultry manure or cow manure.

The composition of mineral fertilizer should include a minimum of nitrogen and more potassium and phosphorus. The fact is that a substrate saturated with nitrogen can be harmful to the amaryllis. When the flower is dormant, do not feed it.

Transplanting Amaryllis

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

After the bush has bloomed and its flower stems have wilted, the plant can be transplanted. If not transplanted, the top layer of substrate in the pot, 30 mm thick, should be replaced with fresh, fertile soil each year.

The frequency of amaryllis transplants is once every 3 or 4 years. Transplanting rules:

  1. Water the shrub abundantly when it is a few days before transplanting.
  2. After the shrub is removed from the container, carefully but gently inspect the root system, cutting out those areas that have rot.
  3. Sprinkle the cuttings and other problem areas with charcoal powder or treat with another disinfectant.
  4. Carefully separate the daughter shoots from the bulb.

    If they are left behind, the bush will spend most of its energy growing the offspring and will not be able to please you with beautiful flowers.

  5. Lay a layer of drainage 30 mm thick at the bottom of a tall container. Fill it 2/3 full with the prepared potting soil.
  6. Fill the substrate with a layer of sand 20mm thick and place the bulb in the middle. Carefully bury it in the potting soil so that only the base is covered.

In this way an injured, decayed or tired bulb can quickly regain strength. As a result, the Amaryllis will renew itself and begin to grow vigorously.

Right transplanting of Amaryllis. The best times and methods for transplanting.


The leaf plates that have begun to wither are not cut back.

The fact is that during wilting, nutrients from such a leaf are transferred to the bulb. As a result, the bulb accumulates useful substances that can be spent on the next flowering. If the half-wilted leaves do not die off completely for a long time, they should be carefully bent to the ground or cut off at the base of the bulb.

Care after flowering

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

When the bush has flowered and the flowers have faded, it will begin its resting phase. If the plant is properly prepared for the dormancy phase, it will greatly prolong the life of the bulb.

The first thing to do is to carefully cut off the flower stalk at the base of the bulb. Watering is also gradually reduced because the flowering bush needs less moisture.

Transfer the flower to a cool place out of the light. For two to three months, do not feed or water it. Only occasionally you need to moisten the substrate lightly with a sprayer.

A true sign of the end of the dormancy period is the appearance of young sprouts or flower arrows. The shrub can then be transferred to a well-lit location with a higher air temperature and, if necessary, transferred to a larger container.

Breeding methods

Growing from seed

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

You can grow amaryllis from seed but take into account several facts:

  • New bushes will not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant;
  • the bulb will stay young for longer;
  • flower arrows will appear 5 or 6 years later.

Seed material should be freshly harvested. It retains good germination for about 40 days.

Drying out the seeds is undesirable because it has a negative effect on their germination.

Sow a substrate consisting of sand, humus, leaf and turf soil (2:1:2:1). Sowing is carried out in moistened soil mixture, with the seeds covered with a thin layer of substrate on top (thickness of no more than 0.5 cm). To make the sprouts appear as quickly as possible, the seeds are placed in heat - 23 to 25 degrees.

The first shoots should show after a couple of months. When the plants have formed two true leaf plates, they are piked into separate 100 milligram containers.

There are three ways to propagate Amaryllis at home.

Reproducing Amaryllis bulbs

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

Much easier and faster to multiply Amaryllis with daughter bulbs. They are separated from the parent bulb when the shrub is transplanted.

Daughter bulbs are planted in a separate pot, and the soil should be the same as for growing an adult amaryllis. Young bushes are characterized by rapid development. After 2 years, the bulbs reach the size of an adult bulb. The first time flowers appear 2-3 years after planting.

Why amaryllis does not bloom

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

Often inexperienced florists complain that the home amaryllis does not bloom.

There are several possible reasons for this:

  • The pot is too wide: this leads to an active growth of daughter bulbs, resulting in a lack of energy to form flowers;
  • Lack of nutrients;
  • lack of light during the active growth period;
  • lack of resting period;
  • bush infested with a fungal disease or pests.

Amaryllis not blooming? How to make the plant bloom.

Possible problems

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

Mistakable problems that occur with amaryllis or inappropriate growing conditions include:

  1. The leaves fade and wilt. These are signs of rot on the plant.
  2. Flowers become black.

    The room is too humid and excessively cold.

  3. Leaf blades are marked by slow growth and will eventually fall off. Amaryllis worm has settled on the bush.
  4. White spots have appeared on the shoots and leaves. The flower is infested with powdery mildew.

  5. An onion rot has appeared on the bulb. This is the result of onion mite or narcissus fly.
  6. Brown spots appeared on the foliage. A sign of false moths.
  7. Yellowing of leaves.

    Stagnant moisture in the roots or aphids have settled on the bush.

The plant can also be harmed by thrips.

Amaryllis species and varieties with photos

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation
Amaryllis belladonna

Amaryllis belladonna, or amaryllis beautiful (Amaryllis belladonna) - Not so long ago it was thought to be the only amaryllis species. The bulbs of this plant reach about 80-100 mm across and the leafless flower stalks are 0.6 to 0.

7 m long. The six-petaled, pleasantly scented flowers can be colored in various shades of pink, cream or lilac.

Best varieties:

Durban (Amaryllis Durban)

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

Bell-shaped flowers feature a white midrib at the base.

Parker (Amaryllis Parker)

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

The most popular plants are those with bright pink flowers with a yellow center.

Vera (Amaryllis Vera)

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

The flowers are pinkish with a nacreous cast.

Snow Queen (Amaryllis Ice Queen)

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

The petals are white, with a cream-colored edge.

Grandior (Amaryllis Gervase)

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

The flowers have a wonderful coloration: there is a gradient transition from dark pink to white on the petals.

Red Lion (Amaryllis Red Lion)

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

The spectacular flowers have a bright purple color.

Minerva (Amaryllis Minerva)

Amaryllis: home care, transplanting and propagation

The red flowers are white and star-shaped.

This is only a small portion of Amaryllis varieties.

More than 90 varieties of such a plant are known today.

Amaryllis and Hippeastrum are different plants. What is the difference between Hippeastrum and Amaryllis.


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